Another beginner with RV wanderlust...

I bought the highest priced Class C money could buy when I bought mine. Guess what? Two windows leak rainwater, and there's no less than (5) roof leaks that have damaged interior cladding and wall coverings. The term; "quality" when thrown about here and elsewhere when someone is advising you to buy anything less than a Blue Bird Wanderlodge, a Prevost, or a Newell Coach - has no bearing whatsoever when it comes to things like roof leaks. The only way to insure your roof never leaks is to keep it in a covered carport or garage. Quality units with rubber/tin / or fiberglass roofs will all leak rainwater, sooner or later is what I've learned in 28 years of motorhome owning.

One summer in 115-120F+ temperatures may cure you from the 'desert' - for N. Minnesota.

I lived in the desert for five years -- first in Tucson, and then in Las Cruces, New Mexico. I fell in love with it, even the heat. Possibly I am part human, part lizard. :D

Like someone said, it can be expensive to own, operate, insure, maintain, and park a MH. Then again, if you can pay off a student loan, you can probably do anything!

Thanks for the welcome, burlmart. For some reason my "hobbies" lean toward the expensive. Three years ago I took up restoring a '52 Chevy. :)

Talking to fellow RVers, like on the net, can bring a wealth of info also. Don't be afraid to ask us.

Thanks for the good advice, especially about the journal,John and Judy. And you can bet I'll start asking questions as they arise.

To that end, I think the key considerations are floor plan, floor plan, floor plan.

Thanks for the welcome, alliemac. Good advice regarding the floor plan. The other thing that has been pounded into my head from reading this forum is to look for water damage (I'm buying used). I've seen the rebuilds, like DaHose's (? sorry if I am misremembering the username) cabover rebuild. Whew.

more money spent quality-new versus entry-level-new will yield less trouble over time. The same applies to the used market. In either case, consider following, my general guideline below.

Thank you for all the good advice, Ron. Good tip above, and I appreciate you posting the article. Good stuff. Many thanks!

Also do a little navel-gazing:

Good advice, Deb and Ed. What you brought up is one of the issues I am still considering at this time (toad or no toad). Honest navel gazing should help me make that decision. Thanks!

Try to learn about the electrical systems...

And Bordercollie just hit on another issue where I need to do my research and learn a bit about. I've gathered some of the basics, but this is an topic I need to dive into a bit more.


Thanks all for your advice. You folks are so kind and generous with your time and wisdom. :)

Cheers,
Rebecca

ron.dittmer wrote:
Here are my thoughts about all this.

Renting a rig first, is a good way to determine if RVing is something you would like to do on an annual or even permanent basis. If Rebecca is past that point and already knows this is what she wants, then renting a rig will simply be money spent for a vacation rather than money that could be invested into a better rig.

I didn't read through all the replies, so maybe I will be repetitive. Not knowing Rebecca's budget, but in-general, more money spent quality-new versus entry-level-new will yield less trouble over time. The same applies to the used market. In either case, consider following, my general guideline below.

Traveling alone, I feel Rebecca would be best to consider a rig as short as possible, yet still meeting her needs and comforts adequately. The shorter the better for traveling solo. Just make sure the rig has all you need both in features and capacities.

Ron

A female travelling alone would be safest in a Prevost coach. It's highly unlikely anyone could break-in, even if they knew what they were doing.

She has no budget.

Rebecca-H wrote:
Hi all,

This is my first post here, but I've been quietly lurking and reading the archives for quite some time now. What a great resource this forum is, and I already appreciate all of you who're generously sharing your experiences and offering up advice. Thank you! Eventually I may ask questions, but for now I'll continue to soak up your wisdom from the archives.

About me...

Single female. Freelance writer (meaning I can work from anywhere). Minnesota born. Desert bound. About ready to pay off my graduate student loans this summer (finally!) -- which is why now is a fine time to start shopping for RVs.

Next up on the master plan: get the RV so I can hit the road by fall...

Rebecca

One summer in 115-120F+ temperatures may cure you from the 'desert' - for N. Minnesota.

Try to learn about the electrical systems including 120volt ac shore or generator power and the 12 volt DC "house batteries", the converter/charger, disconnect switch, monitoring of battery voltage, maintaining electrolyte levels and cleanliness of battery connections. Most of the appliances have control devices that depend on 12 volt DC power. Fridges and microwaves also run on 120 volt AC power from shore power or RV generator, or Propane. Fridges usually have an "auto" setting to run on 120volt power if available or propane when not hooked up to shore power or running the generator. Preventive care and maintenance is necessary and helps insure that power is available when you are on the road or camped and more or less "on your own" Operating an RV is not rocket science but it is more like operating and owning a cabin cruiser boat than an SUV. RV tires, brakes, and engine cooling systems are also important for safety and breakdown prevention.

Also do a little navel-gazing: do you want to spend each night in a different place; or park somewhere and soak up the ambiance for a while? If the latter, you might want to bring a "toad" (towed vehicle) along. Something small and economical that gets good MPG. They're usually easy to hook up, but your RV will need to tow #3500 to #5000 lbs.

If you're moving every day, a MH under 28', is generally able to park in a double (nose-to-nose) parking space. When we're sightseeing, we don't bring a toad, and simply plan to shop or eat at a restaurant before we arrive at the RV park and set up. Assuming you are able to walk a few hundred feet, you can usually find a place to park, as long as you avoid congested urban areas.

Here are my thoughts about all this.

Renting a rig first, is a good way to determine if RVing is something you would like to do on an annual or even permanent basis. If Rebecca is past that point and already knows this is what she wants, then renting a rig will simply be money spent for a vacation rather than money that could be invested into a better rig.

I didn't read through all the replies, so maybe I will be repetitive. Not knowing Rebecca's budget, but in-general, more money spent quality-new versus entry-level-new will yield less trouble over time. The same applies to the used market. In either case, consider following, my general guideline below.

Traveling alone, I feel Rebecca would be best to consider a rig as short as possible, yet still meeting her needs and comforts adequately. The shorter the better for traveling solo. Just make sure the rig has all you need both in features and capacities.

Ron

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New or used, when shopping for any conventional class-C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. What construction methods are used to be most affordable, and what methods cost more but are built to hold up much better to the elements and the punishment of the road.

Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.

When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy" and/or "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water penetration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets in, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Mold can also grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a Reliably Well Sealed motor home.

#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are limited in size.

#2 SECOND BEST
Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water. Here are the good things you want to look for.

a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans, many thousands of times, representing a series of extended continuous earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.

b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.

There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Born Free offers a seamless bucket design as seen in This Model. Winnebago's View Here is another fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Phantom applies a partial bucket concept. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, that extra bed would be extremely important.

c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.

d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down the wall a few inches. The fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.

e) A 5 Sided Rear Wall Cap
This 5 sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress.

Potentially Troublesome Construction
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.

There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best

About The Chassis
The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis is not popular, but is a very good choice for the right application. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter is the least powered chassis. People who tow with a Sprinter, take it slower.

If considering a recent “small” class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.

Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Offers a 35% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
- A grander view out the windshield
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.

Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.

You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.

There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years, and even more anticipated with the upcoming Ford T-Series chassis. The general public hopes it will become available for the RV industry. It is kind-of like a Sprinter in size and fuel economy, but hopeful to be much more affordable and easier to get serviced.

The Chevy 3500/4500 Chassis
I do not understand why this chassis is not more popular. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches to store your rig, the Chevy adds an additional 6" to the front bumper compared to the Ford. I learned that researching rigs that could fit in my 25'-0" deep garage. By default, the Ford gave me 6" more to work with. If you examine my motor home in my garage HERE, you will see our Ford E350 is quite tight already. That could be some the reason why the Chevy offers a little more cab space.

Engine Power Ratings of Ford, Sprinter, & Chevy
Ford - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft
Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft
Chevy - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft

Welcome and enjoy the ride! I did the same thing here reading for a couple years before finally finding and buying our RV. I agree it would be worthwhile to rent first so you can try to buy your last RV first. To that end, I think the key considerations are floor plan, floor plan, floor plan.

Welcome to the RV family Rebecca. The folks here are giving some good advice. Visit an RV show or two study each type and spend some time in each pretending to cook, relax lounge around and check out the bed. determine if there is enough storage. Keep a journal of your likes and dislikes because you will get confused. Do not rush in and buy at a show. prices are higher to make up for renting the space extra insurance security and such.

Talking to fellow RVers, like on the net, can bring a wealth of info also. Don't be afraid to ask us.

Good luck on the search and have fun.