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- Bill_SatelliteExplorer IIWhere does all the equipment required to "put on her face" go when the table is folded down. Sounds like a lot of work to move it to and from the shelf everyday.
- When the shelf is pulled into the upright position, the hinged piece of 1/8" thick plywood will automatically fall down into this position.
The only hardware needed is a hinge, as gravity will do the rest. When putting the shelf back into the down position, all I need to do is push the 1/8" plywood back up into position, and the 1/2" plywood shelf will fold down easily.
I do plan on using one of these towards each end of the shelf, so between the 2 of them, they should hold the shelf nicely, and out of the way when not in use.
- I also started work on a prototype setup for the rear shelf, which will go beneath the rear window cover.
Let's assume that the window behind the plywood is a wall. My shelf is 1/2" plywood, and as you can see, I routed out a portion so that a piece of 1/8" thick plywood will sit in there and the plywood will still be flush with the wall.
- That closes things off when assembled and provides a better glue joint when using the Kreg pocket screw joint.

- This is what I should have done from the beginning. Don't know what I was thinking.... or not.

- Here is what the inside joint looked like, and as you can see, there was very little surface area for a glue joint.

- When I cut the groove in the upright piece, I ran the groove all the way to the end, and I should not have done that. This is what it looked like. Duh.... Lol.

- I know some of you are going to find this a shock, but, I screwed up.
When I made the rear window cover brackets, I failed. I knew it when I put it together the first time, but I figured I'd get things close and then replace this piece before final installation.
JoeH wrote:
fulltimin wrote:
After some consideration, I also decided to modify the rear window bracket for the slider.
I figure if I ever want to remove the slider, I need a way to do so without taking the entire bracket out.
As a result I have to modify the top bracket.
Isn't that going to rattle like crazy driving down our "fine" roads ?
Not if I use "soft wood". Oh, come on, that's funny! Lol.
Actually, I was waiting for someone to come up with that.
My plan is to use some of the "brush" type stuff that is used on windows to help prevent the rattling. I think the bottom will be fine, since there will be plenty of weight on it.
The top on the other hand, will need some "cushion" to prevent that. I plan on using this - which I also used on the LR windows.
That should keep things quiet. (Hopefully).
Thanks for the post.zigzagrv wrote:
fulltimin wrote:
zigzagrv wrote:
fulltimin wrote:
zigzagrv wrote:
my wife!
I hope your couch is comfortable. You will need it if she finds out you called her an applicance Lol.. :)
Thanks for the laugh.
The love of my life (notice how I get back on her good side;) ) is currently being my caretaker, after I had a run-in with my table saw. After 60 years of this woodworking thing, I finally had a serious accident with a power tool. I cut the tips of 2 fingers off Saturday a week ago. Get the bandage off today to see the damage. Wish me luck!
BTW, this is rv related as I was cutting the frame of the tv cabinet to accommodate a larger tv.??
How are the fingers doing? Inquiring minds want to know......
Thanks for asking. They're coming along just fine. My index and middle fingers on the left hand (I'm right-handed) are about a 1/2" inch shorter (don't have to worry about trimming fingernails on those two). My butt has healed well also from where I had been kicking myself.
Good to see you're back on the 'PROJECT'. Just be careful with them wicked power tools!;)
What's done, is done. Experience is sometimes a tough teacher.
As my sig says......
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
Be safe.
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