Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Adding a little piece of painters tape, with just a little pressure, and we are at 90 degrees. So basically, I will call this one a win.







I now know, I can bend wood around a 2 - 3/8" or 2.5" diameter object, so that should make things a little easier to bend the wood for the bottom of the sink edges.

As it turns out, I should have kept just a touch more of the hole to bend the wood. It is very close, but as the old saying goes - no cigar. Lol.

Here you can see, it is close to a 90 degree angle, but not quite.

I noticed on the hole saw, there were 4 slots around the outside of the saw.

Sooooo, I figured, since they are equal distance apart, after drilling the hole, I cut off the end of the 2 x 4 until I had 1/4 of the outside diameter in the wood.

I figured that would give me a right angle transition and should work just fine.

This is the bottom side, and you can see the wood being bent around the outside of the hole saw, while forced into the 2 x 4 partial hole.

I've been looking for a way to bend wood at the bottom of the sink, to make the transition from the sides to the bottom. I need a fairly tight corner.

I pulled out a hole saw that is 2 - 3/8" diameter. I drilled a hole in a piece of a 2 x 4 to see how some of the pieces of wood I have would bend.

I did moisten the wood a little and then forced the wood into the curve, like this.

Got my 2x3's cut today, in preparation for assembly of my saw horses. That will simplify things for working on large items.

Evening, everyone. I started measuring and marking the 2x3's to make my new set of saw horses. I haven't cut any of them yet, just getting ready.

I also added some extra pieces to to the sink. I had a small section that needed the 3rd layer, so I glued them into place tonight.

It seems easier to glue them from the inside, rather than the outside.







As you can see, the section between the arrows is what I glued into place.

I plan to glue another layer inside, to make it look much better before I add the Epoxy to cover the rest of the wood.

It will look better when I am done, compared to what it does now. Hang in there.

BigRabbitMan wrote:
Just for everyone’s information, a day or so ago a 1976 FMC like mine that had the drive train and many other parts/systems upgraded or cleaned up just sold on the Bring a Trailer auction site for $151,000. I am glad Len and Robert, the two people that did the work, didn’t “stick a fork” in it!

I did the same drive train upgrade that was done to that coach. I didn’t do it looking at resale value. I did it for my own use and enjoyment of the coach.

Wow. Color me impressed. Lol. When a reno is done, whether it is back to factory specs or not, somewhere, there is usually a person who thinks the final product is worthy of spending their money on.

Thanks for the info.

I expect to have an update tomorrow.

Just for everyone’s information, a day or so ago a 1976 FMC like mine that had the drive train and many other parts/systems upgraded or cleaned up just sold on the Bring a Trailer auction site for $151,000. I am glad Len and Robert, the two people that did the work, didn’t “stick a fork” in it!

I did the same drive train upgrade that was done to that coach. I didn’t do it looking at resale value. I did it for my own use and enjoyment of the coach.

Yep, 8' long fit inside and I can still close the rear hatch.

Did I mention I like my Pt Cruiser? As my mom used to tell my dad when he used to tell a story, 'We've heard that story 50 million times, move on'! Lol.....

I picked up some 2x3's today, and I'll be making a new set of saw horses. I am 6' tall, and I like my work surface between 36 and 40 inches high, for a comfortable work height.

Then I can paint some plywood and get more done while working on the sink.