Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

It's been said, the road to nowhere is paved with good intentions.

Also, it's the thought that counts. Doesn't really matter if you do it or not.

Ah, yeah, right. Duh...

I had good intentions. I also had the energy. I had the time. However, it didn't happen. Yet, I got nowhere.

There is a reason. Today is our anniversary. I decided it would be better to spend time with my spouse. After all, today, it's official. We've been married for 50 years. Yeah. Half a century. Lol.

Sounds really long when I put it that way.

It's been a good day.

I do plan on working tomorrow. Have a good one.

dodge guy wrote:

fulltimin wrote:

DewLess wrote:
Left hand drill bit

Yeah, I didn't have one of those either...

Ya, but you need a left handed drill to use one!

Nothing like a little bit of good humor. Thanks.

fulltimin wrote:

DewLess wrote:
Left hand drill bit

Yeah, I didn't have one of those either...

Ya, but you need a left handed drill to use one!

DewLess wrote:
Left hand drill bit

Yeah, I didn't have one of those either...

Left hand drill bit

Looking around a little bit, the solution was right in front of me, and very cheaply, I might add.







Yup, that's right. Using a torx bit of the appropriate size, a couple of whacks with a hammer to insert said bit, then using the "impact driver" that I have from Ryobi, and "Bingo". As they used to say... "Easy as Pie".

With the impact driver, the stuck bolt came right out. Somebody hit the easy button on this one.

You may be able to reuse the torx bit, but if not, they only cost pennies when buying a bunch at a time.

Wahoo!

During the course of this rebuild, I have encountered a number of twisted off screws, bolts, and the like.

Sometimes the answer is staring me right in the face. Other times, a little thought is needed. This one, was, since I don't have the proper tool, what do I have that I can use that will work?

If the bolt head is twisted off, OR, if I had to grind off the head to get said offending member apart, here is a quick, very workable solution.

Step number one is to drill a hole in the center of the bolt, as if using an "easy out". However, I have had some success with easy outs, but not always.

navegator wrote:
Hare you also calculating for the stress cracks induced by the vibration of the sink while driving, I had the head sink crack horizontally from road induced stress, found that the "P" trap vibrated just enough to induce tension, replaced sink and anchored the trap.

navegator

Nope. Have not calculated that, and not planning to. If it cracks when we are on the road, I'll know it, and take care of it then.

Hare you also calculating for the stress cracks induced by the vibration of the sink while driving, I had the head sink crack horizontally from road induced stress, found that the "P" trap vibrated just enough to induce tension, replaced sink and anchored the trap.

navegator

Here is a close up, unfortunately, it is a little blurry, but the measurement is roughly 8 - 1/4". As you can see, the bottom is bowed a little bit, between 1/4" and 3/8".

As I said though, all this weight is hung in the center, is about an extra 5-6 lbs greater than what is possible with water, and the sides only bowed just a touch.

All in all, I am not worried about the sink collapsing. As I said, this is worst case scenario, and then some.







I we only fill the sink 1/2 full, that would be about 60 lbs for the entire sink, instead of 119 lbs for a sink that is 10 x 15 x 22. But again, the sink slopes from 10" deep at one corner to about 8" at the shallow end.

No, I am not worried about failure.