Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Brob wrote:
Looking good. What are you building the cabinets out of?

Funny story. I had bought a couple of the magnet holders sold at Harbor Freight as they were very inexpensive with an ITC sale. I had taken them out to the MH to be installed at a later time. When I went to get them to install I couldn't find them anywhere. Puzzled, I went inside the house and started looking in the couple places my wife puts things of mine that I bring inside that she finds less than aesthetically pleasing. As I was searching she came in and asked what I was looking for. I told her, and she pointed to the kitchen where she had just installed them by the stove. She "used a level and everything". She had gone to the MH to look for me, found the magnetic holders instead, and thought they'd be great in the house too! She said I could get another pair next time I went to Harbor Freight. I took this to mean it was a sanctioned trip for more tools!

The majority of the cabinets and shelves will be plywood, with the face frames/fronts, from solid wood. Good possibility at this point that the face frames/fronts, will be Black Walnut, which will match the counter top.

The wife was thinking maybe just using removable boxes in the upper cabinets, instead of doors. Something similar to a wicker basket. That would save some weight, and keep all similar items in one place. If it turns out she doesn't like them, I can always add doors at that time.

Nothing like a good trip to Harbor Freight. When the wife likes to go, it's a plus! Lol.

Have you compared the weight of all this wood to what you removed? Kinda curious about how the whole weight, and weight distribution, is going to work out on that chassis and engine. Any upgrades there you'll need to consider, such as shocks, axles, tires, transmission, toad towing capacity, etc?

Brob wrote:
Looking good. What are you building the cabinets out of?

Funny story. I had bought a couple of the magnet holders sold at Harbor Freight as they were very inexpensive with an ITC sale. I had taken them out to the MH to be installed at a later time. When I went to get them to install I couldn't find them anywhere. Puzzled, I went inside the house and started looking in the couple places my wife puts things of mine that I bring inside that she finds less than aesthetically pleasing. As I was searching she came in and asked what I was looking for. I told her, and she pointed to the kitchen where she had just installed them by the stove. She "used a level and everything". She had gone to the MH to look for me, found the magnetic holders instead, and thought they'd be great in the house too! She said I could get another pair next time I went to Harbor Freight. I took this to mean it was a sanctioned trip for more tools!

Sounds like an endorsement to me!! :B

Al

Looking good. What are you building the cabinets out of?

Funny story. I had bought a couple of the magnet holders sold at Harbor Freight as they were very inexpensive with an ITC sale. I had taken them out to the MH to be installed at a later time. When I went to get them to install I couldn't find them anywhere. Puzzled, I went inside the house and started looking in the couple places my wife puts things of mine that I bring inside that she finds less than aesthetically pleasing. As I was searching she came in and asked what I was looking for. I told her, and she pointed to the kitchen where she had just installed them by the stove. She "used a level and everything". She had gone to the MH to look for me, found the magnetic holders instead, and thought they'd be great in the house too! She said I could get another pair next time I went to Harbor Freight. I took this to mean it was a sanctioned trip for more tools!

This is the bath area wall, and the red lines indicate .... (drum roll please)!!!!!! .....

Seriously considering putting a very thin piece of steel there, and probably painting it.

Why? I think it would be a nice place to hang different things with magnets.

I know sometimes people use a magnet to hold their kitchen knives, and so forth.

I was thinking, having a large piece of steel there would allow all kinds of magnetic hooks to be stuck on there.

Since it would not have to be a thick piece, it would not weigh very much. Just need to glue it to the wall to hold it into place.







What do you think? Am I overlooking something here?

Probably a little difficult to see, but here is the pic of both sides, with the counter top shown.

Here's the start of a pattern for the shelf ends on the passenger side, and the cabinet that will be at the top, and connected to the ceiling.

Currently, the cabinet front would be 15" high, and 12" front to back, with the back wall of the cabinet, being about 11" high, as the ceiling droops about 4 inches.







Here's the drivers side at the bath wall.

Brob wrote:
Thanks for the reply regarding the adhesive use. I think I am going to give the Chemlink a shot. I used a few different kinds of construction adhesive to varying degrees of success and I think having something that will remain somewhat pliable would be a good thing.

One thing that seemed to be a pervasive situation for me was not being able to spread the adhesives quickly enough; I'm in Florida, so I attributed some of that to humidity on the moisture cure adhesives. That's where the water based contact adhesive was good as it took almost too long to tack.

Looking forward to seeing how your roof gluing goes. I remember the day I finally coated my aluminum roof. I spent countless hours prepping the aluminum, removing old coatings, some of which clearly weren't properly applied. Once I had all the old coatings removed and everything cleaned and ready for the two-part liquid EPDM roofing, and I had a good weather window, I barely slept the night before. I was both excited and nervous as I'd never used the product before. I was so relieved once I finished. It came out well and best of all, it stayed dry inside.

Like you, I looked at all the leaks from the perspective of wanting to go back together in a manner that wouldn't encourage similar issues down the road. I do still have the roof penetrations, but I sealed all the layers so that if a vent or A/C gasket did fail, it would be unable to get inside the roof system and would have to just fall to the floor where it would quickly be noticed. I did the same to all the windows as well, now if there is a sealant or gasket failure, water won't make its way into the layers, it will have to run inside where it will be much more easily noticed. Once you have torn into a RV wall that's been water damaged it certainly gives you a perspective on how to prevent future leaks, and a sincere motivation to keep the water out of your hard work!

I used one of these to spread the ChemLink. Worked pretty well for larger areas like covering the insulation or plywood.







I agree, once you see the mass of destruction that wayward water causes, it leaves an impression, and trying to make sure it never enters again becomes a top priority.

Sounds like you're doing a good job of making sure that never happens again to your motor home!

sundancer268 wrote:
Are you sure that roofing is TPO? I always was told the way to tell if your roof was EPDM would be White on the top and Black on the bottom and TPO would be White on Both sides.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=KL5qJw397Rc&feature=emb_logo

Couple of things about rv roofing. What's used on an rv is only about .025 or so thick, and not reinforced, while what I bought is .060, is reinforced with fiberglass, used on commercial buildings, and won't tear. I've seen videos of rv roofing, that could be torn fairly easily, when the glue gave way.

Here is the copy of the receipt that I have. You can see the numbers on it.







Here is a memo from Carlisle with product codes, which match what is on my receipt.







Based on the numbers, I would have to conclude that I do in deed have TPO.

Brob wrote:

fulltimin wrote:
Here's a silly question. Anyone ever try using TPO on the outside walls of a motorhome?

Actually, when I first saw you testing the TPO material the thought crossed my mind wondering how it would work as the exterior siding. You can obviously get it wide enough to cover from roof to bottom with one sheet (which you can't do with filon) and it is definitely durable. I wonder how it would take a paint finish?

I had to re-laminate a good amount of the filon on the exterior of my rig, and I can tell you the stuff is brittle! The TPO certainly seems like it doesn't suffer the same in that department. It would definitely be interesting to see how it fared as a motor home siding.

From what I've read, TPO can be painted. I would imagine, that TPO on the side should last longer than on the roof, since the suns rays aren't nearly as direct on the side walls as on the roof.

I agree, it would be interesting to see how it would hold up.