Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

navegator wrote:
One of my tool-boxes has a lever at the back that locks the drawers via a bar with cut outs on that grab the drawers and prevent them being opened, maybe you can do something like that.

navegator

That would actually be a very secure way of holding the drawers in place.

Note to self - (mental note).

LouLawrence wrote:
Several of my drawers use the latches I mention on the rear of the drawers as well as on the slide-out in one bay that has our grill on it. The work well no matter where you locate them.

I would think they would work no matter where they are located. The big difference will be how convenient, (or lack thereof), they are to install, and adjust.

fulltimin wrote:
Here's another shot of the kitchen all "kinda" cleaned up, with the lights on, and the bath "door" standing in place.

That’s probably worth $100 if you can glue it back together into the shape of a piece of plywood.

Several of my drawers use the latches I mention on the rear of the drawers as well as on the slide-out in one bay that has our grill on it. The work well no matter where you locate them.

One of my tool-boxes has a lever at the back that locks the drawers via a bar with cut outs on that grab the drawers and prevent them being opened, maybe you can do something like that.

navegator

Bruce Brown wrote:
That looks good.

I'm sure it was addressed somewhere in the last 100 pages or so, but please remind us again where the couch and chairs are going.

Here we go. This is looking forward.

The 2 chairs are turned toward each other with a "table" in between. It's actually just a drawer turned upside down, sitting on a stool.

It's just a representation of something similar to what I want to put there, and not an actual table, nor to proper scale.







From the end of the left counter top to the "bulkhead" at the rear of the chairs, there is just 1 inch shy of 10 feet.

The bulkhead on the right to the side of the steps amounts to 78 inches.

That means I have an area of about 90 inches wide and 78 inches long (front to back) to do something with seating and conversion to beds.

Either that, or bring a bed down from the ceiling, like the Safari "Trek" motorhomes.

Here's another shot of the kitchen all "kinda" cleaned up, with the lights on, and the bath "door" standing in place.

Anyone need any "deconstructed plywood"? Own a piece of history.

Sawdust is free, shipping is not. Lol.

PastorCharlie wrote:
The ones on my Newmar can be adjusted to require more force to open them. Some of the bottom drawers are rather large and filled with pots and pans and they have never opened while in transit.

These drawers will be a little harder to open without a catch than the standard steel slides, but I think it would still be a good idea to have some extra "insurance" to keep them closed.

Time will tell.

LouLawrence wrote:

fulltimin wrote:

JoeH wrote:

zigzagrv wrote:

LouLawrence wrote:
These

X2 Have had those in my MH since I got it. Never a failure.

You can actually get them cheaper from Newmar--- $1.45 includes tax and delivery. Just ordered one a few weeks ago.

Thanks for the reminder. I went to their website and ordered one. We'll see how long it takes to get here.

Ordered 1? Wow, don't spend too much! Just kidding, some heavier drawers may require 2 for some extra staying power. The also make these latches with high and lower pound ratings (pull before it unlatches) so be sure you are buying the higher rated latches.

Lol. I want to make sure mounting won't be a problem. I am not sure I have enough space up front to mount them.

These are "frameless" cabinets, meaning, in between the drawer fronts, (as in, above and below the drawer front), there is no "frame" to attach anything to.

The only frame is along the side of the drawer, and there is not a lot of space between the side of the drawer and the frame.

It's possible, that I may have to mount them at the back of the drawer, where there is more space.