Battery isolator switch?

Jim@HiTek wrote:
It doesn't 'override' them, it places them in parallel so you have the house batteries assisting the starting battery.

The root of your problem is probably because your RV doesn't have an aux charging system for your chassis battery while you're parked and plugged into shore power. BTW, the optional roof mounted solar panel is basically just a salesman's scam. What you should do is just go measure across the chassis batts in the condition it was when you had the problem and if the voltage is not 13.8 or so, you need an aux charger like a Trik-L-Start.

If you've parked the RV without shore power, just disconnect the grounds from both sets of batts and they'll hold a charge for months. If you leave them connected, they'll slowly discharge...the chassis batts in days, the house batts in a couple weeks.

You better get your RV fixed. our coach sat 3.5 months with out power applied, it started right up. and the house batteries still had 12.9 volts, 1 hour down the road after engine started to charge them, they were at 13.4v.

It doesn't 'override' them, it places them in parallel so you have the house batteries assisting the starting battery.

The root of your problem is probably because your RV doesn't have an aux charging system for your chassis battery while you're parked and plugged into shore power. BTW, the optional roof mounted solar panel is basically just a salesman's scam. What you should do is just go measure across the chassis batts in the condition it was when you had the problem and if the voltage is not 13.8 or so, you need an aux charger like a Trik-L-Start.

If you've parked the RV without shore power, just disconnect the grounds from both sets of batts and they'll hold a charge for months. If you leave them connected, they'll slowly discharge...the chassis batts in days, the house batts in a couple weeks.

That's close enough