Battery issues

Kind of having trouble understanding the question, but if it is the house battery check for a cutoff switch. It may be off.

Check the two heavy gage wires that connect at the converter charger and go to the house battery to charge it. The connectors on the converter/charger have allen head set screws that need to be tight and bite into the two heavy gage wires. Also make sure that clamp connectors at the house battery are clean and tight, making good connection. Make sure that any small wires with ring terminals are connected to the correct clamp connectors. Check fuses in fuse block for any that are blown or making poor connections. A loose wire at a fuse holder caused the same symptom you have. Make sure that your disconnect switch for the house battery is in on position. You should hear a clunk from a relay when it is switched "on". Check voltage at house battery when rig is connected to shore power, should read 13.6 volts on your digital voltmeter set on 20 volt DC scale. With engine running, voltage at house battery should read around 14 volts DC. If converter charger is working properly, etc, it should take 24 hours to charge a near dead but good house battery. When you are driving, it may take a couple of hundred miles for engine alternator to charge the house battery and starting battery. The starting battery will not charge when rig is parked, engine off and plugged into camp/shore power unless a special device is installed Google "Trik-L-Start". Learn about battery charging system and keep batteries maintained and electrolyte levels above the plates using distilled water and a turkey baster filler from an auto supply store.

It sounds as though you're getting power only from the isolator system but not from the house battery. Assuming your house battery is charged, this means the connection from the house battery to the rest of the electrical system must have some problem.

Check the terminals and wires carefully, and the connection of the ground wire to the RV chassis. If you have a master fuse at the battery, check that it is not blown. If you only checked the chassis battery for charge, verify the house battery is charged and good as well.

While it probably could be the disconnect switch, I think more often the battery isolator circuit is on the unswitched side of the disconnect solenoid...at least it is on my class C. There are many variations in the wiring, though. If the isolator connects on the load side of the disconnect, then the disconnect itself may well be giving trouble and should be checked out.

Sorry, I used coach and house to mean the same battery.

cgmartine wrote:
You said you had the battery checked? Was that the engine or coach battery? If you mean the house battery, and it is fully charged, check to make sure the disconnect switch is not in the off position. Check positive and negative wires to the coach battery for connectivity. If you have a generator, does it start off the house batteries?

Slightly confusing post - it sounds like you are talking about 3 different batteries (engine, coach and house). :)

jimwooster wrote:
Having an issue with my class C battery. When I am driving or motor is running all the 12 volt systems work. When I shut off the motor none of the 12 volts work. Had the battery checked and it is fully charged. Any ideas? Jim

Are you and BrianButler the same? You seem to be having the same exact problem at the same exact time (6:40 p.m.)... Not being snarky, just thought that strange that two different people would be posting the same exact problem at the same exact time in the same forum.

Is this a sudden problem with a motorhome you've had for a while? Or a problem with a new (to you) motorhome?

You said you had the battery checked? Was that the engine or coach battery? If you mean the house battery, and it is fully charged, check to make sure the disconnect switch is not in the off position. Check positive and negative wires to the coach battery for connectivity. If you have a generator, does it start off the house batteries?