Forum Discussion
j-d
Nov 17, 2014Explorer II
Yes.
NO Rubber Valve Stems!!! Be sure to get metal valves. If your chassis is Ford, there are specialty 15-degree valves that are great for Front and Spare. But you don't need them. What your DO need for Front and Spare are Valves slightly longer than most of the ones the tire shops stock. That or their normal ones plus an "Air Through" Cap/Extender. For the rears, I'd suggest full-on custom valves. If the job can wait till tomorrow I can furnish you a phone number where they'll overnight a set to you.
Discount called the warehouse and got the seven tires with freshest date codes delivered for our RV. Like yours, very low miles, just age. Difference from the Mic's you describe was, absolutely NO signs of age cracks on the four R250's we had from 2007. Sidewalls on the V-Steel's from 2004 looked good too, but the tread area was failing.
Both the new and the old tires had LOTS of balance weight on them. Discount pointed out the amount of weight on the old tires and speculated it might be needed for the wheels, FORD OEM Steel. I don't know about that, but I was skeptical. Figured we were in for a lot of re-balancing. NO! They are dead steady.
DON'T let them inflate your Front Tires to Sidewall Pressure!!! You simply do not need 80 PSI in front! Many Class C's don't have all that much weight on the front axle, and it only takes 65 to handle Ford's max front axle capacity (GAWR-F). They sent ours out with 80 all around and the coach was nearly uncontrollable on the downgrade of Dames Pt Bridge. Our weight/pressures are
4560 Front, 60 PSI which is rated for 4670
9240 Rear, 75 PSI which is rated for 9320
80 PSI Rear is fine, slightly rougher ride, but do NOT inflate Front beyond what a CAT Scale weight translates to in a Load/Pressure chart like Michelin's. The brand doesn't matter as long as the tire size and load range all match. Just notice that Mic's chart is by "corner" so divide Axle Weight by Two, and remember that there are different ratings for Single and Dual applications.
Sent you a PM.
NO Rubber Valve Stems!!! Be sure to get metal valves. If your chassis is Ford, there are specialty 15-degree valves that are great for Front and Spare. But you don't need them. What your DO need for Front and Spare are Valves slightly longer than most of the ones the tire shops stock. That or their normal ones plus an "Air Through" Cap/Extender. For the rears, I'd suggest full-on custom valves. If the job can wait till tomorrow I can furnish you a phone number where they'll overnight a set to you.
Discount called the warehouse and got the seven tires with freshest date codes delivered for our RV. Like yours, very low miles, just age. Difference from the Mic's you describe was, absolutely NO signs of age cracks on the four R250's we had from 2007. Sidewalls on the V-Steel's from 2004 looked good too, but the tread area was failing.
Both the new and the old tires had LOTS of balance weight on them. Discount pointed out the amount of weight on the old tires and speculated it might be needed for the wheels, FORD OEM Steel. I don't know about that, but I was skeptical. Figured we were in for a lot of re-balancing. NO! They are dead steady.
DON'T let them inflate your Front Tires to Sidewall Pressure!!! You simply do not need 80 PSI in front! Many Class C's don't have all that much weight on the front axle, and it only takes 65 to handle Ford's max front axle capacity (GAWR-F). They sent ours out with 80 all around and the coach was nearly uncontrollable on the downgrade of Dames Pt Bridge. Our weight/pressures are
4560 Front, 60 PSI which is rated for 4670
9240 Rear, 75 PSI which is rated for 9320
80 PSI Rear is fine, slightly rougher ride, but do NOT inflate Front beyond what a CAT Scale weight translates to in a Load/Pressure chart like Michelin's. The brand doesn't matter as long as the tire size and load range all match. Just notice that Mic's chart is by "corner" so divide Axle Weight by Two, and remember that there are different ratings for Single and Dual applications.
Sent you a PM.
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