Took our "new to us" 2011 Coachmen Mirada out for our first camping trip -- a one-nighter to the local state park.Good news is that we made it back with absolutely no damage to vehicle or occupants. Always a plus, right?I do believe that my converter is having issues. As this is my first coach, I'm just not really certain how these things work.First off, I believe that at least one of my two deep cycle 12 volt batteries is defective. This may or not be the major cause of the problems, but wanted to get advice before just randomly replacing things...While on 50-amp shore power the lights would gradually dim more and more until the radio would cut out and some warning alarm (CO?) would sound. A few moments later I would hear the converter fan turn on and the lights would come up full. The converter would run for a while then shut off and the cycle would repeat.I *thought* that when on shore power that the converter would be "converting" full time. It would appear that mine is only converting when the batteries die, then switching back off again.Is this a battery problem, a converter problem, a switcher problem, or other?Thanks!

you have a bad battery take it out of the loop it should work fine plugged in

Chris, you need to Google 12volt side of life, read, it's a great read. JMO

If you replace the battery, replace both or the old one draws down the new.

Need to remove and separate the batteries for testing.RV should operate fine with no battery if the converter is working.

What I think the others are saying if you have a bad battery, it could be making the converter work over time till it over heats, and turns off. The good battery runs down the converter cools down starts working again and the cycle starts all over again. Pull the bad battery and see if it starts working right .

"Camping Brownout" or "New Converter/Switcher in my Future?"

15 Replies

lordnorth
Explorer
Oct 16, 2014
Just a followup, in case anyone is interested...

I replaced the batteries with 2 EGC2's. Batteries Plus had a fantastic price.. I ended up getting the two batteries for $99 each before tax.

Tried them out again this weekend... and had almost the same result. The lights would get dimmer and dimmer for about 5 minutes, then the converter fan would run and they would get bright again, 5 minutes later they would be dim.

So I checked the voltage at my batteries: 12.47v. Checked it at the converter terminals: 12.47v. Started the engine and checked the battery again: 13.20v.

So pretty obviously I have a converter problem. Ordered a Progressive Dynamics 60 Amp RV Converter Charger W/Charge Wizard PD9260CV. Expected to arrive next Wednesday, should be a simple remove and replace as my current converter is already a deck mount.
lordnorth
Explorer
Sep 30, 2014
Guardrail.... Good point. Already checked into that. My compartment is 11 1/2 high, the battery is listed as 10.79 inches. So as long as that is to the top of the terminal posts (which I believe it is), I should be golden.

Thanks for the suggestion!
guardrail53
Explorer
Sep 29, 2014
If you go the GC battery route, before you buy, measure your battery compartment, as the GC battery's are taller than the ones you have now, make sure you have the room, before you buy!
lordnorth
Explorer
Sep 29, 2014
Looking at the EGC2. Appears that they are the same size, but with slightly higher amp hours. I don't really need the extra.. but considering the difference is only about $15 per battery, seems to make sense.

BatteriesPlus has pretty decent prices on them. 'Bout the same as Sam's club, but without supporting the monopoly.

Thanks again for all of the help! Really looking forward to hooking them up just to confirm to myself that I haven't damaged the converter.
time2roll
Nomad
Sep 29, 2014
Golf Car battery is generally six volt "GC2" size. There are 8 volt golf batteries... don't get those. There are also much larger 6 volt batteries such as L-16.

If your local Sam's Club or Costco carries the GC2 they are a very good value.
krivanj
Explorer
Sep 28, 2014
You can switch to two 6 volt golf cart batteries, but these would be wired in series, unlike the two 12 volt batteries you have now, which are wired in parallel. If you do this, the converter you have will work just fine.
lordnorth
Explorer
Sep 28, 2014
Thanks for all of the suggestions. Yes, I believe that one of the batteries could be shorted. It charges, but will not hold a charge very long at all. Excellent theory about the converter overheating and shutting down... that would make sense as it wouldn't always come on as soon as the alarm sounded. Sometimes it did... sometimes it would take a little while. Which would make sense if it was overheating.

Soooo... On to replacing the batteries. Currently I have a pair of 12 volt Marine/Deep Cycle. Considering going to the 6 volt or Golf car batteries. (Is there a difference... between a "6 volt" and a "Golf Car" or is a Golf Car battery an "especially" deep cycle battery?) As I understand it... I don't need high amperage... I need *long* amperage.

Also... With a pair of 6 volts hooked in series, can I use the same converter, or would I need a converter specially for 6 volt batteries?

Thanks!
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Sep 28, 2014
Sounds to me like one of the batteries is either completly dead, and I mean DEAD, or shorted. You need to pull both batteries and have 'em tested.

Next: If they need to be replaced,, Remember Amp Hours, epically usable amp hours, are good things.
GC-2 Flooded wet cells (Six volt so you need two in series) 215-230 amp hours
And as these are deep cycle you can use up to half.

Group 24 Marine/Deep cycle are starting batteries, You should not use much more than 30 percent of their 75 amp horus (or about 25 amp hours each)

Group 27 is just under 100 amp hours, some brands are 100 amp hours
Group 29 is just over, likewise
Group 31 is 130 amp hours

Again all these are normally Marine/Deep cycle so limit your usage.

OPTIMA: multiply above by 60% (0.60)

Just for fun.. 12 volt 4D, you can get 'em in deep cycle, 230 amp hours, just like the GC2. That is one battery.

Except for the golf car batteires (Which become a 4D when properly installed) all figures are for a single battery
jerseyjim
Explorer
Sep 28, 2014
IMO, get new batteries. The gradual loss of power sounds like an issue I had once. Transfer switch went bad....everything worked off the batteries, (TV included), they went down and so did everything else.
rockhillmanor
Explorer II
Sep 28, 2014
The detectors going off is signally low voltage.

Replace the battery and then also check the output of the converter at the converter. If it is putting out too much it will boil your battery, too little will give you the signs you are seeing now.

Leave the tester on the convertor after it reaches what is called for in the specs. I had one that it would reach spec but the only way we found out it was defective was by leaving the tester on and we found it was skyrocketing and frying each batter I put it in the coach.

Replaced it and opened the bad one up and one of the capacitors was totally shot. Literally looked like someone shot it with a 22! :B