Can a converter cause AC problems

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Hope you don't have more issues cause my fun meter is full.

Get an RV Tech next time.

Meant no disrespect at all. It's nearly impossible to read emotions the writer was intending.
I really do appreciate forums like this and the help they provide from folks. I also do really enjoy some of the craziness that happens out here when someone ask something.
Thanks again to all that provided feedback. :-)

gsf35099 wrote:
Hi Gang, was wondering if DC converter could go bad and cause shorts on the AC side? Pretty sure I have a converter go bad ( no DC power between positive & neutral) and caused my GFCI outlets to get hot & burn.

Thoughts?

Doubt it but probably related.

Sprig wrote:
Senior Troll,

Well played on your end.

100% agreed

Senior Troll,

Well played on your end.

Hope you don't have more issues cause my fun meter is full.

Get an RV Tech next time.

Old-Biscuit wrote:

gsf35099 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Thought responses in your other post covered that.

GFCIs have 120V AC power to them. GCFI problems come from 120V AC issues.

Converter has a 120V AC feed to power it but that feed has it's own CB.

SO NO..converter issue would not affect/cause GCFIs to 'fry'


NOW if you have an Inverter that feeds GCFIs.......a malfunctioning Inverter could cause isses with GCFI as the Inverter supplies 120V AC

Thanks, oldbiscuit. I haven't seen any responses & for the life of me could not find that thread. LOL. I will search again and see if I can find it. Even in my forums it was not coming up. :)

Your other post.....LINK


Sounds like your converter is fried. 0 (Zero) output Pos/Neg with 20V Pos/Grd.
And you also have couple fried GCFIs.

SO I have to ask.......

WHAT ARE YOU PLUGGED INTO FOR AC POWER SUPPLY

YES I am shouting cause it sounds as if you have plugged into a 220V AC source.

Has this power source been tested..sounds like lost neutral and 220V went thru one leg burning up AC equipment on that hot leg.

LOL. I love to read you guys get all wound up out here. Cracks me up & fun to read.
Thanks for the link, I dug & found it too.
I'm plugged into a 2k generator that only has a 110v output.
The generator is running fine & after I removed the converter we were able to plug a coffee pot in & run with no problems.

I agree the converter is fried & I think it was causing AC problems back through it's plug.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
...Sounds like your converter is fried. 0 (Zero) output Pos/Neg with 20V Pos/Grd.
And you also have couple fried GCFIs.

SO I have to ask...
Has this power source been tested..sounds like lost neutral and 220V went thru one leg burning up AC equipment on that hot leg.

I didn't know there was another thread.

Just curious, if the converter is "fried"(NO OUTPUT), what is your take on the 12V supposedly being ~20VDC?

And, honestly, while I have seen stranger things with electronics, I would think the regulation scheme in the converter would be based on the output voltage. However, I do suppose it is possible that a 220V input may not be expected and the converter switching circuit is not capable of reducing the incoming duty cycle short enough to provide for a lower output voltage; possibly explaining the ~20VDC that is coming from somewhere in a 12V system.

gsf35099 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Thought responses in your other post covered that.

GFCIs have 120V AC power to them. GCFI problems come from 120V AC issues.

Converter has a 120V AC feed to power it but that feed has it's own CB.

SO NO..converter issue would not affect/cause GCFIs to 'fry'


NOW if you have an Inverter that feeds GCFIs.......a malfunctioning Inverter could cause isses with GCFI as the Inverter supplies 120V AC

Thanks, oldbiscuit. I haven't seen any responses & for the life of me could not find that thread. LOL. I will search again and see if I can find it. Even in my forums it was not coming up. :)

Your other post.....LINK


Sounds like your converter is fried. 0 (Zero) output Pos/Neg with 20V Pos/Grd.
And you also have couple fried GCFIs.

SO I have to ask.......

WHAT ARE YOU PLUGGED INTO FOR AC POWER SUPPLY

YES I am shouting cause it sounds as if you have plugged into a 220V AC source.

Has this power source been tested..sounds like lost neutral and 220V went thru one leg burning up AC equipment on that hot leg.

gsf35099 wrote:
...Between positive & ground the output is 20.7v.

http://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/dls30spec.pdf

http://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/2013_IOTA_Power_Guide.pdf

IOTA does not currently list a 30A 24V converter; so I really don't know what you have.

Unless you have an older different model, the IOTA data sheets show the output terminals labeled as Positive Terminal Lug (Red) and Negative Terminal Lug (Black).

Typically, in an automotive installation, the negative terminal is attached to chassis ground.

If you actually measured ~20VDC at the output terminals, then something is definitely wrong.

Anyways, last reply from me, time to grab the popcorn and watch how this plays out.

ON EDIT: So long as the above posts don't change, anyone notice what does not quite add up?

gsf35099 wrote:

Sprig wrote:

gsf35099 wrote:
...converter go bad ( no DC power between positive & neutral)...

Proper terminology goes a long way in helping to understand the problem. A DC source is typically measured between positive and ground (or negative), not neutral.

At the moment, since you didn't mention anything other then GCFI going out, I'd consider them two separate issues.

Is the breaker for the 110 for the converter tripped?

Not to be a smart a$$, but you are apparently not familiar with my type of DC conver (IOTA 30 amp). There are output lugs labeled "positive, neutral, & ground". Between positive & neutral the output is zero. Between positive & ground the output is 20.7v.

None would be familiar with my converter. Someone actually put a sticker over the Negative output side labeled neutral. wth. Not sure why anyone would do that.
So now I know I have zero output DC output volts between positive & negative. No output.