Forum Discussion
dougrainer
Feb 01, 2019Nomad
ScottG wrote:msturtz wrote:wa8yxm wrote:
THe only way I'd even consider switching a heat pump for heat to heat strips.
For one thing... A/C's on RV's tend to be roof mount. I want A/C's on the roof as that is the hottest part of the RV.. but for heat I want it down near the floor. Heat pumps DO have advantages that make 'em worth it. but if I'm going to use resistive heat (Electric heat strips) I want 'em near the floor where my space heaters sit...
NOTE: most RV's are not wired to support space heaters. I added heavy duty wiring to mine just for that 12ga wire feeding 15/20 amp outltes wire bent around a tightened screw.. NOT the uni-box **** the factory put in.
Absolutely correct! RV wiring is substandard at best. Small wire size, uni-box outlets, undersized main panels, and so on. Not fun.
All the 120V outlet wiring in a RV is the same Romex 14 awg stuff that's in your house. So the wiring is not smaller.
The much maligned RV outlet is UL and even CSA approved right up to its 15A limit and I have used these outlets all over my RV to run a1500 watt space heater. They hold up just fine.
Now if someone doesn't install one correctly it will overheat just like residentail outlets will but for all intent and purposes, the RV will run a space heater just fine.
Non-engineer types don't like the connection style that the RV outlet uses but that same blade type of connection is used all over new houses and commercial buildings.
RV's have both 14/2 and 12/2. Depending on the load the circuit is supplying
AC will have 12/2
Microwave will have 12/2
Fireplace will have 12/2
Inverters In and Out will have either 12/2 or 10/2 depending on the Inverter model and wattage rating
Some CONVERTER circuits will sometimes have 12/2.
BUT, almost ALL the wall and kitchen receptacles will have 14/2 and be on a 15 amp breaker/s Doug
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