Changing heat pump to heat strip

I've had heat strips & currently have heat pumps & I don't care for either source for producing heat. Both are loud & obnoxious and as mentioned, since heat rises, rather illogical. To be fair I've never seen a RV that didn't have a actual heat source (furnace/hydronic/etc.) so these are just redundant anyway. If the OP's question was about replacing a failed roof unit with either of the two models, not sure the heat strip isn't the more practical.

dougrainer wrote:
Answer to original question.
You can ADD a heat Strip to certain model RV Heat Pumps.
There would be no reason to REPLACE a HP for a AC only model with the add on Heat Strip. The Heat Strips are 5600BTU's. The Heat Pumps are their BTU rating----13,500k or 15,000k. basically 3 times the Heat production of a Heat Strip. Using Heat Strips as HEAT in sub 35 degree weather is not a good Heat Source. Heat Strips are marketed as removing the Chill in the RV, not to heat the RV. Doug

At least he got one correct answer to his question :)

Heat pump down to about 40, then 2-3 space heaters works for us.

ScottG wrote:

msturtz wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
THe only way I'd even consider switching a heat pump for heat to heat strips.

For one thing... A/C's on RV's tend to be roof mount. I want A/C's on the roof as that is the hottest part of the RV.. but for heat I want it down near the floor. Heat pumps DO have advantages that make 'em worth it. but if I'm going to use resistive heat (Electric heat strips) I want 'em near the floor where my space heaters sit...

NOTE: most RV's are not wired to support space heaters. I added heavy duty wiring to mine just for that 12ga wire feeding 15/20 amp outltes wire bent around a tightened screw.. NOT the uni-box **** the factory put in.

Absolutely correct! RV wiring is substandard at best. Small wire size, uni-box outlets, undersized main panels, and so on. Not fun.

All the 120V outlet wiring in a RV is the same Romex 14 awg stuff that's in your house. So the wiring is not smaller.
The much maligned RV outlet is UL and even CSA approved right up to its 15A limit and I have used these outlets all over my RV to run a1500 watt space heater. They hold up just fine.
Now if someone doesn't install one correctly it will overheat just like residentail outlets will but for all intent and purposes, the RV will run a space heater just fine.

Non-engineer types don't like the connection style that the RV outlet uses but that same blade type of connection is used all over new houses and commercial buildings.

RV's have both 14/2 and 12/2. Depending on the load the circuit is supplying
AC will have 12/2
Microwave will have 12/2
Fireplace will have 12/2
Inverters In and Out will have either 12/2 or 10/2 depending on the Inverter model and wattage rating
Some CONVERTER circuits will sometimes have 12/2.
BUT, almost ALL the wall and kitchen receptacles will have 14/2 and be on a 15 amp breaker/s Doug

msturtz wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
THe only way I'd even consider switching a heat pump for heat to heat strips.

For one thing... A/C's on RV's tend to be roof mount. I want A/C's on the roof as that is the hottest part of the RV.. but for heat I want it down near the floor. Heat pumps DO have advantages that make 'em worth it. but if I'm going to use resistive heat (Electric heat strips) I want 'em near the floor where my space heaters sit...

NOTE: most RV's are not wired to support space heaters. I added heavy duty wiring to mine just for that 12ga wire feeding 15/20 amp outltes wire bent around a tightened screw.. NOT the uni-box **** the factory put in.

Absolutely correct! RV wiring is substandard at best. Small wire size, uni-box outlets, undersized main panels, and so on. Not fun.

All the 120V outlet wiring in a RV is the same Romex 14 awg stuff that's in your house. So the wiring is not smaller.
The much maligned RV outlet is UL and even CSA approved right up to its 15A limit and I have used these outlets all over my RV to run a1500 watt space heater. They hold up just fine.
Now if someone doesn't install one correctly it will overheat just like residentail outlets will but for all intent and purposes, the RV will run a space heater just fine.

Non-engineer types don't like the connection style that the RV outlet uses but that same blade type of connection is used all over new houses and commercial buildings.

Oldave

It was 500w aka about 1600 btu, not 500 btu

Electric resistance heat is very effective at converting watts to heat
However
A heat pump uses electricity to ' Move Heat' not create heat, so as long as the ambient temp is within the working range of the heat pump you get more heat from the heat pump for less watts used

It's A/C in reverse, blowing the cold outside, blowing the heat inside

Answer to original question.
You can ADD a heat Strip to certain model RV Heat Pumps.
There would be no reason to REPLACE a HP for a AC only model with the add on Heat Strip. The Heat Strips are 5600BTU's. The Heat Pumps are their BTU rating----13,500k or 15,000k. basically 3 times the Heat production of a Heat Strip. Using Heat Strips as HEAT in sub 35 degree weather is not a good Heat Source. Heat Strips are marketed as removing the Chill in the RV, not to heat the RV. Doug

Hi,

Be aware that in truly cold temperatures (-20) the fan motor in the air conditioner may not function. DAMHIK

wa8yxm wrote:
THe only way I'd even consider switching a heat pump for heat to heat strips.

For one thing... A/C's on RV's tend to be roof mount. I want A/C's on the roof as that is the hottest part of the RV.. but for heat I want it down near the floor. Heat pumps DO have advantages that make 'em worth it. but if I'm going to use resistive heat (Electric heat strips) I want 'em near the floor where my space heaters sit...

NOTE: most RV's are not wired to support space heaters. I added heavy duty wiring to mine just for that 12ga wire feeding 15/20 amp outltes wire bent around a tightened screw.. NOT the uni-box **** the factory put in.

Absolutely correct! RV wiring is substandard at best. Small wire size, uni-box outlets, undersized main panels, and so on. Not fun.

In most cases heat pumps are more efficient that electric as you can only get a certain amount of wattage out of a certain amount of power, never any more. Heat pumps us a motor ( compressor) to heat, using less wattage to turn motor. Exception is when its gets lower than 25 deg, but personally who wants to be camping when its that cold. I always carry a couple of small electric heaters to just take the chill off