Class B cabin noise, how much is too much?

That MB 3500 series chassis is supposed to be the best! Sounds like it's made from rubber! Tht type of behavior on the road is unacceptable, and may in fact indicate quality control issues, a bad chassis or poor construction. Or even be a potentially dangerous vehicle.

All for around $150,000.00! Shame on Airstream!

Call the factory and dealer that sold it and get it taken care of asap...don't take no for an answer and do not accept any excuses. Tell them you are a member of the largest RV owner forum on the internet. ;) But be nice!

Make sure you store the microwave glass plate, it will rattle like crazy if left in the micro.

Standard Sprinter 3500 with class B or C innerds. We've had 2 of them, and both have been the same. That is until I took to it with the anti rattle repairs and adjustments.
Our '13 has/had all the doors out of adjustment and loose with rattles and wind noise something terrible. The passenger door was stamped wrong so it didn't fit up against the body at the top rear, till I bent the frame slightly so it would. The others were just simple adjustments of the door strikers and bump stops.
Otherwise the Winnebago part just took some small adjustments and addition of insulation materials.

The key words used above in the first reply is "supposed to be"

Are you getting these noises from the chassis or inside the coach? There are lots of places in a Class B that need some extra quieting down that have to do with the cabinets, appliances, etc. It took us the first year to track down the noises that occurred when we went over a bump or were riding on a rough road that were INSIDE the coach and we still have a few that we can't figure out. These have nothing to do with the mechanics or body of the vehicle. Cabinet doors rattle, anything loose is going to move, shelves in the fridge will rattle, and on and on. Then once you start putting things inside, those will make noise too unless firmly secured down. With close proximity of the driving seats up front and the rear coach you hear everything.

We don't get excited unless we hear a loud crash. I just tune out the back noise, however I have thought about erecting a curtain between the cab and living area to cut down on noise.

Maybe you could find another Interstate similar to yours, take it for a test drive, and see if it is significantly quieter. If so, maybe there's an issue.

But I agree with the others (posters with actual B experience) that there's a certain amount to be expected. I was used to a quiet sedan so, early on, noticed all the little noises back there. Now it's music to my ears as we set out on another great trip.

Eventually, you'll find ways to reduce them (that microwave plate was a good example) ...for example, ours has a metal lid over the stove burners that's a real rattler unless we stow a rubber dish drain mat inside to cushion it. You'll soon tune routine noise out and only detect the unusual ones. We often hear a bang that comes as a result of "someone" forgetting to lower the toilet lid.

Since this is your first RV, you may just have some unrealistic expectations.

First, your vehicle was designed as a commercial vehicle, a truck if you will. It will not drive, operate, and provide the level of creature comforts that a luxury automobile will. You can expect more road noise, engine noise, and less comfort.

Second, Airstream (or another converter for that matter) has added significantly to the interior. You now have doors, cabinets, drawers, appliances, and plumbing inside the passenger compartment. Any slight thing can produce a surprising amount of noise. For example, a drawer face ever so slightly touching the cabinet frame when the body torques just the right way can produce a loud, annoying squeak.

Third, you have added your items to the vehicle. Plates, sliver ware, pots and pans, clothing, and personal grooming items. Imagine the pots and pans rattling together. Ever see and hear a kid banging some old pans together? The same thing is happening inside the cabinet. Those knives and forks can make a lot of rattles.

I once heard someone say riding in a motorhome is like a rolling earthquake.

To add to other inputs: you can track down some rattles which are usually plates, stove grill,microwave plate,pots,cups but squeaks and squawks are a different source usually. I found a squeaking noise coming from the bathroom door behind the driver seat due to a missing little stick-on tab to keep the door tightly closed. Can be quite annoying. You dont have the bulkhead squeeks and groans I got with two C mhs with fiberglas cabs. Sliding door might need adjusting or even a poorly fitted window. Make a list and visit your dealer with the ones you cannot trace. I generally find my PW very quiet chassis and bodywise with the odd noise from the stuff in cabinets--my wife tracks the noises down and deal with it!
Good luck and happy rving.

Often the felt stick on pads supposed to keep drawers and cabinet doors quiet are misplaced or missing/inadequate. We carry a 3ft length of hose. While the wife is driving stick one end in your ear, move the other end around the suspected noise area. Usually this will isolate the noise and you can then fix it.

We had a high pitched squeal in our 1996 RT, which turned out to be the rear door latch. We have the same sound in our present RT. It was tracked down to our continental tire vertical support arm. I have tried many cures - grease, WD40, etc., but the real cure is to separate the flanges from the vertical support by inserting shims on the pivot bolt. The actual shim insertions were difficult, to say the least, but my eldest son and I managed it, with a good dose of swear words.

When the continental tire is returned to vertical and ready for travel, the bolt that tightens the fore and aft action is tightened so that there is no movement of the retaining pin that runs side to side. If you have an RT with a continental tire option, you will know what I am talking about.