Dash air conditioner conditioner leaking oil
My dash air conditioning compressor is leaking a small amount of oil from the area of the pulley. It's still working but obviously this isn't good. My question is: Can it "seize" at some point? We ...
Forum Discussion
GrampaR123,
What Brian said is true. The refrigerant is leaking too and eventually the low-pressure switch will prevent the compressor clutch from engaging and the compressor won't run. Or, you could just disconnect the wire going to the clutch to let it free-wheel all of the time.
However, if you're unfortunate enough to have your compressor clutch seize as we were about 5 years back (5 miles from the campground, 250 miles from home), then the compressor will always be turning and without oil & refrigerant in the system, the compressor will destroy itself and you will be stranded on the side of the road once that happens.
You should probably get it fixed before the trip as your dash A/C can cut out at any time, and I'd assume you'd want it working for your trip. You can somewhat compensate by running your generator & roof A/C, but it will still get warm up front in the heat of the day.
On our rig (GM 8.1 engine), someone on a different RV forum had posted a procedure & part numbers that allowed me to change out the serpentine belt to a slightly shorter one, change the idler pulley, and reroute the belt around the compressor. I was able to do this in the campground to get home and then work on changing out the compressor when I had the time at home. I don't know if such a work around is available with the Ford V10.
But, a new compressor is in your future regardless if you want the dash A/C to work, so you might as well have it done. A compressor change is not that difficult if you have the tools & refrigerant to do the job. The compressor is probably 2-3 hundred bucks and the vacuum pump, gauge set & refrigerant is probably another $300 or so.
Good Luck!
~Rick
What Brian said is true. The refrigerant is leaking too and eventually the low-pressure switch will prevent the compressor clutch from engaging and the compressor won't run. Or, you could just disconnect the wire going to the clutch to let it free-wheel all of the time.
However, if you're unfortunate enough to have your compressor clutch seize as we were about 5 years back (5 miles from the campground, 250 miles from home), then the compressor will always be turning and without oil & refrigerant in the system, the compressor will destroy itself and you will be stranded on the side of the road once that happens.
You should probably get it fixed before the trip as your dash A/C can cut out at any time, and I'd assume you'd want it working for your trip. You can somewhat compensate by running your generator & roof A/C, but it will still get warm up front in the heat of the day.
On our rig (GM 8.1 engine), someone on a different RV forum had posted a procedure & part numbers that allowed me to change out the serpentine belt to a slightly shorter one, change the idler pulley, and reroute the belt around the compressor. I was able to do this in the campground to get home and then work on changing out the compressor when I had the time at home. I don't know if such a work around is available with the Ford V10.
But, a new compressor is in your future regardless if you want the dash A/C to work, so you might as well have it done. A compressor change is not that difficult if you have the tools & refrigerant to do the job. The compressor is probably 2-3 hundred bucks and the vacuum pump, gauge set & refrigerant is probably another $300 or so.
Good Luck!
~Rick
