Did CHF. Ride is better. Wheels off the ground when leveling

kmb1966 wrote:

georgelesley wrote:
I have also done the CHF. I cannot see how doing it would cause any change in the front wheels being on or off the ground. If you use auto level perhaps it needs recalibration. I now manually level because I noticed the auto level did lift the MH higher on all jacks than necessary.

Having the front wheels off the ground is no problem but never either of the rear wheels. Both rear wheels must be on the ground for the parking brake and transmission park gear to work.

Yes, it does ride with less sway when trucks pass, sudden wind gusts etc. Some say the ride is a bit harsher, we did not notice any change

IMHO the best improvement for the money is the CHF which is free or close to it. The next improvement is a rear track bar. It will fix the rear end tail wagging syndrome and make steering much, much easier with far less back and forth corrections needed. Cost about $500-600. I installed ours myself. Some make their own for $150 or so, I was not that brave.

Could you tell me which Rear Track bar you purchased and installed yourself? I'd like to give that a try if it isn't too difficult.
Thanks for the feedback on the CHF and front wheels.

I got mine from Henderson suspension in Eugene, OR if I remember correctly. Same thing as the Blue OX, but about $100 cheaper. I did it myself, having a helper to hold the bolt while you torque it would help. You need a 150lb torque wrench and some large sockets, I don't remember what size, fortunately rummaging around the tool box I found them.

Can't see how there is any correlation of the CHF and wheels being off the ground when leveling other than coincidence. It does not change the travel of the suspension, it just changes the resistance. And no, having fronts off the ground is not an issue. All that said, I never use the auto level function. It does some weird stuff including lifting wheels off the ground when they don't really need to be. I use manual mode to level. Same result with less drama. My auto level was causing some major body twist and I really don't understand why it does what it does sometimes. I can level in half the time with less frame stress doing it manually.

georgelesley wrote:
I have also done the CHF. I cannot see how doing it would cause any change in the front wheels being on or off the ground. If you use auto level perhaps it needs recalibration. I now manually level because I noticed the auto level did lift the MH higher on all jacks than necessary.

Having the front wheels off the ground is no problem but never either of the rear wheels. Both rear wheels must be on the ground for the parking brake and transmission park gear to work.

Yes, it does ride with less sway when trucks pass, sudden wind gusts etc. Some say the ride is a bit harsher, we did not notice any change

IMHO the best improvement for the money is the CHF which is free or close to it. The next improvement is a rear track bar. It will fix the rear end tail wagging syndrome and make steering much, much easier with far less back and forth corrections needed. Cost about $500-600. I installed ours myself. Some make their own for $150 or so, I was not that brave.

Could you tell me which Rear Track bar you purchased and installed yourself? I'd like to give that a try if it isn't too difficult.
Thanks for the feedback on the CHF and front wheels.

I have also done the CHF. I cannot see how doing it would cause any change in the front wheels being on or off the ground. If you use auto level perhaps it needs recalibration. I now manually level because I noticed the auto level did lift the MH higher on all jacks than necessary.

Having the front wheels off the ground is no problem but never either of the rear wheels. Both rear wheels must be on the ground for the parking brake and transmission park gear to work.

Yes, it does ride with less sway when trucks pass, sudden wind gusts etc. Some say the ride is a bit harsher, we did not notice any change

IMHO the best improvement for the money is the CHF which is free or close to it. The next improvement is a rear track bar. It will fix the rear end tail wagging syndrome and make steering much, much easier with far less back and forth corrections needed. Cost about $500-600. I installed ours myself. Some make their own for $150 or so, I was not that brave.

Front wheels off the ground is not a problem. Blocks can be used if you wish. The important thing is not to have the rear wheels off the ground.