Dripping from AC Inside Coach - In Florida

EMaznio wrote:
I got up on the roof and checked both units. The one that was dripping has some of its insulation on the inside of the shroud covering the cooling coils missing. There is outside air leaking in heavily in that unit, unlike the rear unit. I spoke to a local RV tech, who said that is likely the main issue. I don't have drain lines from the units, so those aren't the issue. The condensation is suppose to just drain off on the rooftop, which it is otherwise doing. After taking it apart and having it turned off for a while, it isn't dripping anymore. I sense that there likely was some ice buildup causing some of the dripping. I plan to wash my filters tomorrow too. Thanks everyone.

Please answer the question---Do you have the 4 button or 5 button wall tstat and do you have Heat Pumps or straight AC only? THAT is required to correctly answer your question. You so called local RV tech should have asked that question IF he was a knowledgeable tech or he may NOT have at least 15 years experience. IF 4 Button or 5 button and AC ONLY, they CANNOT freeze up as the have freeze Thermisters and IF functioning the AC cannot freeze up and cause that type interior dripping. The insulation blanket you found will not cause that type problem if missing. IF you have a 4 button wall tstat and Heat Pumps, THOSE models did NOT have a freeze Thermister and they could possibly freeze up and cause your problem. Doug

jdart wrote:
what is happening ..u are running the ac on high ..need to run it on auto. This gives the unit time to recycle. This worked for me when I was in fl.

Has no bearing if the controls are working correctly. Doug

jdart wrote:
what is happening ..u are running the ac on high ..need to run it on auto. This gives the unit time to recycle. This worked for me when I was in fl.

No, not the solution. HIGH/low/Auto only affects the blower.. You are best running it on HIGH, for several reasons.

ONE Running it on HIGH gives more drying action during compressor shut down. (Though there is one negative here.. Well Mixed here).

Two: Running it on HIGH your mind very quickly learns to filter the noise the thing makes so it's not nearly as bothersom as it is when on AUTO, not to mention the noise also covers (Blocks) other sounds from outside like the couple 2 sites over doing the knock down drag out thing.

Now the Mixed, which I already explained.

If the blower is running and the intake filters inside the coach are clogged it can suck water out of the drip tray to the area above the filter.. WHEN the blower STOPS,,, Niagara falls.

Of course this would happen on AUTO as well just you might not get as much falling water.

I had a similar problem with a Coleman A/C in my Jayco Designer. The drip tray under the coils would fill up and overflow ice cold water onto my shins in the middle of the night in the bedroom. The plastic piece that supposedly drains the water out of the tray onto the roof before it runs over was sticking up too high. I finally used a single hack saw blade between the a/c unit and the roof to shorten the plastic piece which fixed the problem. I can't remember the set up exactly, but that's how I stopped mine from dripping inside.

We just had a similar problem. The gasket sealing the unit to the roof, while not leaking (yet), had compressed so flat that the holes on the side of the drip pan, that the condensation should drain out of, were right up against the roof and hence blocked. Overflowing drip pan meant dripping from ceiling inside rig. Replaced gasket, now have a good inch clearance for the drip drain, and all is well.

I always run my AC on Auto and our thermostat has 4 buttons. We have settings for Cool, Heat Pump and Furnace on the thermostat. I never use the Heat Pump, since I use the AquaHot "Furnace" for all heating. I cleaned the filters, which didn't seem to show much dirt and seems to have taken care of the issue. However, I also haven't run it much since I wrote my last message, since the weather in Key West has been a little cool and lower humidity since then. Heading north to Miami tomorrow and will see if the issue is solved. Thanks everyone for your contributions. Much appreciated!

EMaznio wrote:
I always run my AC on Auto and our thermostat has 4 buttons. We have settings for Cool, Heat Pump and Furnace on the thermostat. I never use the Heat Pump, since I use the AquaHot "Furnace" for all heating. I cleaned the filters, which didn't seem to show much dirt and seems to have taken care of the issue. However, I also haven't run it much since I wrote my last message, since the weather in Key West has been a little cool and lower humidity since then. Heading north to Miami tomorrow and will see if the issue is solved. Thanks everyone for your contributions. Much appreciated!

Your Dometic HP with a 4 button tstat does NOT have a freeze sensor. That means IF the return filters are dirty/clogged(evaporator dirty also), then freeze up is very possible. IF you run on HI/Cool, freeze up is minimized. If you run on Lo/Cool or Auto/cool freeze ups can happen. This is a problem with Ducted AC systems years ago when they installed HP's and did not have a freeze sensor. The replacement 5 button and newer 12 button systems HAD a freeze sensor for the HP models. Doug

We had this problem and it turned out to be cracked drip pans. Dometic had a bad run on drip pans in the early 2000 timeframe. New drip pans fixed the problem. Read about someone with the sam problem who poured radiator leak stuff in the drip pans and he reported it fixed his problem.

When as the last time the units were serviced,evaporaters cleaned and clean the drain pan and outlet

lfeather wrote:
We had this problem and it turned out to be cracked drip pans. Dometic had a bad run on drip pans in the early 2000 timeframe. New drip pans fixed the problem. Read about someone with the sam problem who poured radiator leak stuff in the drip pans and he reported it fixed his problem.

This was a problem usually on NEWMAR RV's with the Dometic AC and HP units in the 2000 to 2002 time frame. Newmar's are bolted down from the top and the installers were over torquing the bolts and causing the evap pans to crack. Doug