electrical issue

dave_330 wrote:
Most of you were right, it was the reset on the inverter. thanks for your help

Glad you found the problem BUT:
What was the underlying cause of the overload? Something that you know happened and have corrected or just a guess?

This would be a good time to check all your AC connections--transfer switch, inverter, breakers etc. Loose connections cause increased resistance which cause increased current and heat.

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:

dave_330 wrote:
Most of you were right, it was the reset on the inverter. thanks for your help

Glad you found the problem BUT:
What was the underlying cause of the overload? Something that you know happened and have corrected or just a guess?

This would be a good time to check all your AC connections--transfer switch, inverter, breakers etc. Loose connections cause increased resistance which cause increased current and heat.

The inverter breaker on my Monaco trips from time to time. There is a thing called pass-thru current that varies with the size of the inverter. That pass-thru current can be exceeded, which trips the inverter breaker, and never trips one of your breakers in the main electrical panel.
Once you learn to recognize what it is, you just go out and reset it and move on with things.

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:

dave_330 wrote:
Most of you were right, it was the reset on the inverter. thanks for your help

Glad you found the problem BUT:
What was the underlying cause of the overload? Something that you know happened and have corrected or just a guess?

This would be a good time to check all your AC connections--transfer switch, inverter, breakers etc. Loose connections cause increased resistance which cause increased current and heat.

the underlying cause is called using more power all at once for the size of breaker(why breakers trip)
If I run a toaster at the same time I have 1500 watt heater cut in
mine trips also

donfrump wrote:

dave_330 wrote:
Most of you were right, it was the reset on the inverter. thanks for your help

really? sure it was not the 12V saleman switch? LOL just kidding, glad it was what I and a couple others told you

Your sarcasm doesn't impress me a bit...:E...after you've been on here as long as I have, you'll find that often someone will describe something as 12V or 120V when it's just the opposite. Many don't realize how an RV is wired. All they know is something doesn't work. Checking the salesman switch doesn't cost the OP anything except maybe 3 seconds of his time, which is why I included it in my post.

Perhaps you might take a bit more time to think about your answers so you don't have to post 15 responses to every request...unless you're trying to "up" your response numbers....:W.......Dennis

Happy new years dennis LOL

You too ! Be safe and enjoy !......:)....Dennis