engine block heater

Weldon wrote:
Could it be just the breaker being bad? The heater does not have to be on any more than 2 hours prior to starting the motor does it? Plug an ext. cord into the cord from block heater then to nearest 110.

I see you are from TX. If you never go into cold temps, 2 hrs is planty. However, if it is -20, and windy, you will want it plugged in overnight! LOL

Could it be just the breaker being bad? The heater does not have to be on any more than 2 hours prior to starting the motor does it? Plug an ext. cord into the cord from block heater then to nearest 110.

My coach has the outlet in the invertor/charger compartment. It is a two outlet plug GFI and the off/on switch is inside on the bed box. Red light means it is on. But I have never had it trip any circuit breaker even when hooked up to 30 amps.

You might not need it to start the engine, but man when it is on it starts so smooth and fast. So yes, I definitely would turn it on if needed. That is why they install the block heaters, not for looks, that is for sure.

Mine is like Dennis---except the plug is in the back drivers side compartment. The switch is on the back bedroom wall....It has never failed....On another note I saw a block heater that had failed just a week ago on a big truck---looked like it had exploded.

ScottG wrote:
Unless your below about -20 degrees, you don't need the block heater for your Cummins.

-20 as in 20 degrees below zero? Good gawd that's some tough love.

ScottG wrote:
Unless your below about -20 degrees, you don't need the block heater for your Cummins.

I run ours while charging the batteries for a couple hours with the generator while in storage when cold outside. I usually run the engine for a half hour after charging. The engine temperature comes up much faster than when not using it. Plus it helps load the generator when running.

Used to plug the diesel pickup in during winter months as well. Lot quicker warmup and less chugging when cold. Heat for the vehicle is faster than without too. It's there, why not use it?

In 20 years I have never seen a 30amp GFI breaker used in a CG but you can buy them.
You can even buy 50amp ones.

Thanks for the input, I will check out what Brett suggested.
Thanks again, it is great to have a site like this, it has saved me time and money several times.
goose62075

Generally, CG's only use a GFI on 15/20 amp (regular house-type outlet).

Would be interested in hearing if others have run into 30 amp CG outlets that are GFI protected.

And, whether it tripped a 30 amp CG breaker because of a GFI or an overload, since you had the block heater cord UNplugged, I would sure check out the outlet in the engineroom into which you plug the block heater. Could be nothing more than moisture or insect nest connecting hot and ground, ground and neutral, etc. Other possibility is a screw through the wire between breaker and that engine room outlet.

5 minutes of work= peace of mind.

It was the breaker at the campground when I had to use a site that only had 30 amp service. I then moved to a site that had 50 amp service, then everything worked. this happened 3 times. it was never the breaker in the m/h, it was always the breaker on the c/g post. I am sure the block heater was not turned on. I would assume that the cord hanging in the eng compartment had to be plugged in for the block heater to work. when the tech removed the wires from my breaker on the m/h, I could use 30 amp GFI breaker without it kicking out.
I'm sorry I didn't explain all of this in the beginning. I was trying to keep this brief and still get some input.
The tech talked as if the problem laid in the GFI circuit. the way I understood him was that most C/G used GFI only on 30 amp service. He said that GFI isn't needed on 50 amp connection.