Engine running rough (1999 Ford V10)
My engine started running rough a few months ago and seems to be missing when calling for power, ie. pulling away from a stop and climbing hills, it will down shift and the tack goes way up to 3000 pl...
Forum Discussion
Be very, very careful about changing the plugs on a 1999 V10 or who you have do it. More damage than good could easily come from it.
Are you really sure you have a problem?? Your OP mentioned downshifting and the engine going to 3000+ rpm-----------that's very normal for a V10 during acceleration or under more than a light throttle. If you have any misfiring going on, your check engine light should come on and a code set. If the check engine light isn't on, and you have good engine response, that should be good.
As for changing the spark plugs, here is an much earlier post of mine on the subject:
The design (4 threads in an aluminum block) is not very robust. When plugs are changed at a dealership, they usually don't get changed correctly. To do it correctly (maybe cautiously is a better term) takes time that a dealership won't invest. I have also previously posted this.
If the mechanic just put his wench on the plugs (especially, if the engine was cool), he may have taken some of the original aluminum threads out with the steel threads on the plug------leading to a failure done the road. It is also probably a good idea to also recheck the torque every 20,000 to 30,000 miles.
From what I learned on the Ford V10 Forum the proper torque was 168 IN-lbs with high temp never-seize on the threads.
Better to remove the plugs, but that has to be done carefully to avoid problems. Here's how I did it.
1. Remove the coil-on-plugs and blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air.
2. Squirt in WD40 or PB Blaster and LET SET OVERNIGHT (or at least an hour).
3. Loosen the plugs just 1/8 to 1/4 turn!!! NO MORE.
4. Squirt more WD40/PB Blaster into the well and LET SET OVERNIGHT.
5. Remove the plugs and check the threads in the head with a bright pencil light.
6. Check/replace the plugs (be sure gap is correct----which I think was around 0.055").
7. Place a LITTLE high temp never-seize on the plug threads. Be sure none gets on the spark plug tip!!!
8. Hand start the plugs (a spark plug socket with a rubber insert and a 6" extension is a big help). The plugs should screw in easily until their shoulder bottoms in the head.
9. Torque to exactly 168 IN-lbs (14 ft-lbs).
10 Recheck the plugs after 5,000-10,000 miles (and maybe every 25,000 miles thereafter to be safe).
If all else fails (or you want an insurance policy when traveling), buy a Timesert Kit.
I did the above at about 40,000 miles before heading to Alaska. The plugs came out without any aluminum on their threads-------possibly due to allowing 2 days to let the PB Blaster to soak in.
I rechecked the torque on them after about 20,000 miles and they were all fine. The MH now has about 64,000 miles on it.
Are you really sure you have a problem?? Your OP mentioned downshifting and the engine going to 3000+ rpm-----------that's very normal for a V10 during acceleration or under more than a light throttle. If you have any misfiring going on, your check engine light should come on and a code set. If the check engine light isn't on, and you have good engine response, that should be good.
As for changing the spark plugs, here is an much earlier post of mine on the subject:
The design (4 threads in an aluminum block) is not very robust. When plugs are changed at a dealership, they usually don't get changed correctly. To do it correctly (maybe cautiously is a better term) takes time that a dealership won't invest. I have also previously posted this.
If the mechanic just put his wench on the plugs (especially, if the engine was cool), he may have taken some of the original aluminum threads out with the steel threads on the plug------leading to a failure done the road. It is also probably a good idea to also recheck the torque every 20,000 to 30,000 miles.
From what I learned on the Ford V10 Forum the proper torque was 168 IN-lbs with high temp never-seize on the threads.
Better to remove the plugs, but that has to be done carefully to avoid problems. Here's how I did it.
1. Remove the coil-on-plugs and blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air.
2. Squirt in WD40 or PB Blaster and LET SET OVERNIGHT (or at least an hour).
3. Loosen the plugs just 1/8 to 1/4 turn!!! NO MORE.
4. Squirt more WD40/PB Blaster into the well and LET SET OVERNIGHT.
5. Remove the plugs and check the threads in the head with a bright pencil light.
6. Check/replace the plugs (be sure gap is correct----which I think was around 0.055").
7. Place a LITTLE high temp never-seize on the plug threads. Be sure none gets on the spark plug tip!!!
8. Hand start the plugs (a spark plug socket with a rubber insert and a 6" extension is a big help). The plugs should screw in easily until their shoulder bottoms in the head.
9. Torque to exactly 168 IN-lbs (14 ft-lbs).
10 Recheck the plugs after 5,000-10,000 miles (and maybe every 25,000 miles thereafter to be safe).
If all else fails (or you want an insurance policy when traveling), buy a Timesert Kit.
I did the above at about 40,000 miles before heading to Alaska. The plugs came out without any aluminum on their threads-------possibly due to allowing 2 days to let the PB Blaster to soak in.
I rechecked the torque on them after about 20,000 miles and they were all fine. The MH now has about 64,000 miles on it.
