Fixing water damage on the old Dodge (pics)
I got started on my summer project the last couple days. I found this thing on Craig's list for $100 and drove it home. It's a 78 Dodge Monaco 23' with a 440. Here's what it looked like when I brought...
Forum Discussion
Spectramac, since I first suggested the over hang roof suggestion I have been giving it some more though also. Ron.Dittmer you idea of a roof that uses light plastic as a roof covering. Will this support a human weight placed on it, between the structure joist, bearing on two points relative small areas....the feet ???
In thinking some more, some where in my past I saw an older truck camper once that had the aluminum roof that over hanging the sides & back of about 4". SO....how about on your roof trusses you notch the bottoms to rest & fasten on your top plates of your walls. Then extend the ends to go another 4" or so past the outside of the outer finished walls 2-3 " thick. Then say oh,......2-3" flat/down (horizontal), out at the outer edges. ( It would raise your roof that 2-3" also) This allows you to run your structural plywood under layment, over the TOP of the roof trusses and seamless out over the edges, past the walls by 4". Cover the edges & bottom of the over hang with plywood also. Then when laying & gluing the rubber top over the under layment, it is also continuous. Running over the top. down the 2-3" side of the front of the overhang, and below back 4" to the wall. Some chrome or plastic continuous trim to conceal the seam. If a person could use a light weight water proof material to seal the space's between the structural joist, THEN any leaks that would accrue out there on the overhang would not be able to drain back into the walls. The only problem that I might see is, does that rubber take a 90 degree bend & wear at this edge very well. Clearance lights could be out on this overhang away from penatrations in the outer part of the wall. One thing from my construction back ground, the edges of the roof plywood underlayment have to fall on your structure member, and...screwed (counter sunk) down at short intervals. To keep underlayment from moving/racking from each other, to break the seam and allow a similar movement/seam bend to show and possible weaken in the rubber roof. What do you thing of all of this ??????
In thinking some more, some where in my past I saw an older truck camper once that had the aluminum roof that over hanging the sides & back of about 4". SO....how about on your roof trusses you notch the bottoms to rest & fasten on your top plates of your walls. Then extend the ends to go another 4" or so past the outside of the outer finished walls 2-3 " thick. Then say oh,......2-3" flat/down (horizontal), out at the outer edges. ( It would raise your roof that 2-3" also) This allows you to run your structural plywood under layment, over the TOP of the roof trusses and seamless out over the edges, past the walls by 4". Cover the edges & bottom of the over hang with plywood also. Then when laying & gluing the rubber top over the under layment, it is also continuous. Running over the top. down the 2-3" side of the front of the overhang, and below back 4" to the wall. Some chrome or plastic continuous trim to conceal the seam. If a person could use a light weight water proof material to seal the space's between the structural joist, THEN any leaks that would accrue out there on the overhang would not be able to drain back into the walls. The only problem that I might see is, does that rubber take a 90 degree bend & wear at this edge very well. Clearance lights could be out on this overhang away from penatrations in the outer part of the wall. One thing from my construction back ground, the edges of the roof plywood underlayment have to fall on your structure member, and...screwed (counter sunk) down at short intervals. To keep underlayment from moving/racking from each other, to break the seam and allow a similar movement/seam bend to show and possible weaken in the rubber roof. What do you thing of all of this ??????
