Fixing water damage on the old Dodge (pics)
I got started on my summer project the last couple days. I found this thing on Craig's list for $100 and drove it home. It's a 78 Dodge Monaco 23' with a 440. Here's what it looked like when I brought...
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First posting. Down here in Tacoma. Camp and fish out of a 1980 Dodge class C "Delta". Suffered somewhat similar problems.Personally never considered tearing the whole box off down to a flat bed to renovate.
Amazing thread. Most grateful for the pictures.
Back drivers side corner separated. Looking at it thought it was because it was screwed plywood to plywood. Screws going in between the plys of the piece on the back. Bandaided it back together. Squirting chaulk into the crack leaned a bunch of wood against the opening to squeeze it somewhat back together and covered it over with four inch roof corner flashing attached with self tapping metal to metal screws. Been a couple years now.
More recently noticed that the passenger side corner of the cabover had white water/salt stains and poked my finger into it. Ended up down to bare metal skin up to the windows and back to a 2x6 across the front of the horseshoe shaped walk-through opening.
Some thoughts about what was contributing to this composting of the framing were that the extention of the metal corner molding down and round off the roof laps the siding by a quarter inch. Regardless of beads of chaulking leaked. Condensation dripping front the windows dripped down the wall. The seam of the front outside wall to roof is situtated right on top of this wall. Also the joint between the metal roof of the truck cab to the camper box is bent over fake leather stuff that is button tucked upholstery. Sandwich of quarter inch paneling with fir? 2x2 between insulated with styrofoam had no venting or breathablity so any water in has no easy evaporation exit.
Thinking cedar framing. Went shopping at Home Depot. Wandered into the molding/trim section and admired the vinyl sticks. Although it is expensive compared to wood. It has true corners and no twists, warps, or knots. It was the no rot, no bug food, that was a big selling point. Was just going to use it on the outside corners but ended up buying six twelve foot sticks. It does flex. Seemed to take and hold screws. Used one by eight cedar to replace the paneling under under the windows for stiffing.
Vinyl 2x2 screwed together with galvanized corner clips. Front under the window is round so screwed full length framing with short blocks making the round with 18x1/2 nailing strips. Capped the platform with peg board. Time will tell. Hopefully be down the road without suffering the same problem later.
So far so good,
Jim
Amazing thread. Most grateful for the pictures.
Back drivers side corner separated. Looking at it thought it was because it was screwed plywood to plywood. Screws going in between the plys of the piece on the back. Bandaided it back together. Squirting chaulk into the crack leaned a bunch of wood against the opening to squeeze it somewhat back together and covered it over with four inch roof corner flashing attached with self tapping metal to metal screws. Been a couple years now.
More recently noticed that the passenger side corner of the cabover had white water/salt stains and poked my finger into it. Ended up down to bare metal skin up to the windows and back to a 2x6 across the front of the horseshoe shaped walk-through opening.
Some thoughts about what was contributing to this composting of the framing were that the extention of the metal corner molding down and round off the roof laps the siding by a quarter inch. Regardless of beads of chaulking leaked. Condensation dripping front the windows dripped down the wall. The seam of the front outside wall to roof is situtated right on top of this wall. Also the joint between the metal roof of the truck cab to the camper box is bent over fake leather stuff that is button tucked upholstery. Sandwich of quarter inch paneling with fir? 2x2 between insulated with styrofoam had no venting or breathablity so any water in has no easy evaporation exit.
Thinking cedar framing. Went shopping at Home Depot. Wandered into the molding/trim section and admired the vinyl sticks. Although it is expensive compared to wood. It has true corners and no twists, warps, or knots. It was the no rot, no bug food, that was a big selling point. Was just going to use it on the outside corners but ended up buying six twelve foot sticks. It does flex. Seemed to take and hold screws. Used one by eight cedar to replace the paneling under under the windows for stiffing.
Vinyl 2x2 screwed together with galvanized corner clips. Front under the window is round so screwed full length framing with short blocks making the round with 18x1/2 nailing strips. Capped the platform with peg board. Time will tell. Hopefully be down the road without suffering the same problem later.
So far so good,
Jim
