Free ride mods - results after a long trip.

wolfe10 wrote:
Some "overthinking" going on here. The tire manufacturer engineers have already looked at these factors and taken them into consideration when the published the Tire Inflation Charts.

Weight the coach (4 wheel position best). Use heavier wheel position on each axle to to to the chart. The chart number is the minimum PSI for that weight. Add 5 PSI to it for a safety factor. Adjust seasonally with big swings in ambient temperature. PERIOD.

Again "cold" pressure is pressure at current ambient temperature-- be it 30 degrees F or 100 degrees F. Same for all tire manufacturers.

In fact its simple. What is called cold pressure is when the temperature inside the tire is the same as outside the tire.
By driving the bending of the rubber warms the inside tire temp up.
But also by sunshine on the black rubber can heaten up the tire inside air. But also the heat of the brakes transported trough the rimms can heaten up the tire inside.
What is important for not damaging the tires by driving is only that heatening up by the bending of the rubber .
If the tire inside air is 115 degr , some parts of the tire can be for instance 200 degr because not every part of the tire is bending as much.

Heard from a man of a tire company that at 170 degr Celcius the rubber looses its flexibility permanently, and then gets damaged by bending.
probably even at 130 degr C/ about 300dgr F this proces already begins.
But if the tire inside is for instant boiling point of water so 100dgr C /about 200dgr F by the heat of brakes or sunshine , all the parts of the tire can be below 130dgr C/300F so no hardening of the rubber and so no damage.

If by only driving the tire inside for instance only 70dgr C/??F then its possible that sertain parts of the rubber of tire are above 130degr C/300F and the rubber handens so damage to tire.