Fullsize Chevy truck as a toad

afrescop wrote:
Insurance company is under no obligation to pay a claim if they find out you are towing over manufacturer limits.

Unless you have a insurance policy with a written exclusion for towing over the manufacturers weight limits, the above statement is completely false.

I used to be in the insurance industry, and have friends that still are. I have NEVER heard of a policy with that type of exclusion.

suggest you weigh your full size PU with a full tank of fuel but otherwise empty. that will be your base weight.

in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

- the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.)

- the weight rating of your tow bar

- the weight rating of your hitch

this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs as it is loaded and configure for travel before choosing a toad. Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc.

Well I am going at backwards from the way most people do I guess. I have the truck already and I don't want to buy another vehicle just to tow behind a motor home. So I am trying to choose a motor home based on my toad. I want a diesel pusher but I don't want to spend that amount a money in one.

Brandon327 wrote:
Well I am going at backwards from the way most people do I guess. I have the truck already and I don't want to buy another vehicle just to tow behind a motor home. So I am trying to choose a motor home based on my toad. I want a diesel pusher but I don't want to spend that amount a money in one.

do you know what your truck weighs with a full tank of fuel but otherwise empty?

"Brandon327".....I towed my Chevrolet Silverado for 5 years behind my DP. Obviously, my DP was more suited for towing the truck. My 2012 Silverado Crew Cab 4x4 weighed in at about 5500 pounds. I can tell you, even with my DP, in certain situations, I could feel the truck push on the back of my DP.

You would at minimum need a good toad braking system and really be cognizant of the weight of the truck on grades and emergency situations.

If your truck is 4 wheel drive and you can put the tranfer case in Nuetral it can be towed 4 down with no issues ... depending on the year you may have to pull a fuse or something.

We flat towed a 5600 lb. Suburban With a 99 motor home with a V-10. We had a 6000 lb. Rated hitch. We live at 6500 ft. And crossed 11000 ft. Passes in CO. Just took our time and geared down. It is doable. No matter how you do it get braking system for whatever you tow.

Trackrig wrote:
Here's a friend towing his 3/4T Diesel behind his MH. It can be done if you have the horse power / torque and a strong hitch. His truck is a 4X4 with a transfer case that when shifted into neutral, makes the truck towable. He used to tow an Excursion but got fed up with the driveline disconnect.



Bill

Your friend has a 20,000 lb. towing capacity with his Marathon. I just wonder how he gets four-wheeler up on top of the truck!

That Marathon is a special edition using Volkswagen back lights and special wheel flairs over the drive and tag axle.

Safe travels,
MM.

Looking through some of the motorhome specs it seems if I want to pull that truck with a gas motorhome I may be better off with a class c.

Brandon327 wrote:
Looking through some of the motorhome specs it seems if I want to pull that truck with a gas motorhome I may be better off with a class c.

regardless, it's all about weights and weight ratings. since you're doing tnis bass-akwards you need to first know what your truck weighs with a full tank of fuel ut otherwise empty. then see my earlier post on how to determine how much weight can ve safely towed. good luck.