Grey water and black water

Don't worry, it's not Alzheimers. It's only _______. Darn, I'll think of it in a minute or maybe more.

There are some aftermarket monitor panels that are a little more accurate than the factory ones. Also most factory black water tank monitors have 4 or 5 screws into the plastic tank, then attach wires to those screws. Then they apply 12 volts to the lowest screw, and measure the voltage on the other screws. If they get back any voltage, then the 1/4, 1/2, 3.4 and full lights come on. Problem is that with the black water tank, any TP that goes into the tank can get stuck on the screws and conduct power from the bottom to top screw, so it will forever read 'full'. I have even drained my tank, then had a reading that the 1/4 was off, 1/2 on, 3/4 off and full light on!

New style systems use plates of conductive material that is glued to the outside of the tank, where no 'material' can stick to the pads.

Anyway good luck with your project!

Fred.

I assume you know what you're doing then. Anything to do with running wires is usually over my pay grade.

The place of the new one would be directly above the tanks so the wires would actually be much shorter than going from the front all the way back

Have you thought out the logistics on that? I'm guessing you have to re-route all the wires from all the sensors?

My old one is in the dashboard – and I'd like to reposition it to the back of the cabin
Plus the old one is very hard to read

Curiosity calls. Why do you want to replace your old one?

Tank level monitor...........LINK