HELP - Need advice

If it has a cabover with a window or slideouts I suggest(if possible)spray the unit with a strong stream of water for several minutes; particularly directly onto the slideout gasket area and directly onto the large window. This should be done with the slideouts extended. Check inside on the floor at the corners of the slideouts at the point where the gasket joins the coach. If the window leaks the wet area should be easily found at the bottom corners of the window.

As repeated above, water damage. You can get the engine and transmission dropped and rebuilt far easier than the cost of dealing with even minor wood framing rot.

After checking for water damage (perhaps have a pressurized sealtest performed), and the chassis is functioning, I'd change the oil on the generator and check the carb. Oftentimes, the genset has to be dropped and the carb replaced if the PO (previous owner) didn't fog the genset or at least run it every so often as per Onan's instructions.

Any prospects? Have you found a model you like?

Slides, storage, length, amenities, condition/age.

Once you figure those out, you can start narrowing down your options.

Harvey51 wrote:
Test drive the brakes. They should be fine at 60k unless driven hard. Worth getting shoes and/or pads inspected if you buy it, so maybe worth inspection before buying. Some say a look in the brake fluid reservoir is telling. Clean fluid indicates the brakes were worked on. Dirty may mean they were not. Some say the fluid should be replaced every few years - it tends to absorb water and the dirt can get into a bad place and cause expensive trouble.

To add to the other comments about changing the brake fluid. Water in the lines also tends to rot the steel lines and rubber brake parts. Yes change the fluid.

Bordercollie wrote:
The thing about flushing and replacing brake fluid is that when it absorbs water, the water turns into steam when you are doing heavy braking on twisty mountain grades, brake effectivness fades and may not be there when you need it.
Also, use lower gear settings with auto transmission when descending long steep grades.

Yep. Living in the mountains, I'm a firm believer in flushing the brake system. A good shop will have brake fluid dip strips that change color when exposed to 'wet' fluid, with the end color showing the percentage of water. A better shop will an electronic tester that does the same thing.

Jim, "Given a 50/50 chance, you can be wrong 90% of the time."

The thing about flushing and replacing brake fluid is that when it absorbs water, the water turns into steam when you are doing heavy braking on twisty mountain grades, brake effectivness fades and may not be there when you need it.
Also, use lower gear settings with auto transmission when descending long steep grades.

Test drive the brakes. They should be fine at 60k unless driven hard. Worth getting shoes and/or pads inspected if you buy it, so maybe worth inspection before buying. Some say a look in the brake fluid reservoir is telling. Clean fluid indicates the brakes were worked on. Dirty may mean they were not. Some say the fluid should be replaced every few years - it tends to absorb water and the dirt can get into a bad place and cause expensive trouble.

The fridge and roof AC unit on our 2004 rig died at about the 10 year mark. Make sure that RV generator, all appliances, fresh water pump, water heater, dash and roof AC work properly. If tires are older than 5-6 years old, (per date codes on tires), replace them with proper load range and name brand tires. Have entire brake system inspected and have brake fluid flushed and replaced, replace front brake flex lines. Check awning fabric for deterioration and mechanical opration. If there is mold smell or discoloration of interior especially in the front overhead area, don't buy it.

Get independant estimates from an RV repair service for anything needing repairs, upgrades or replacements and consider these when deciding to buy or not.

Oops! forgot to mention have all belts and hoses and engine cooling system checked and serviced as needed. Have transmission checked.

Water damage, water damage, and water damage. Eveything else is easy to fix in comparison to water damage. Even an engine would be easier and maybe cheaper to fix than water damage.

dvdlprt: You wrote "Treads on tires looked go..." With a motorhome, tread wear is not necessarily an indicator of a safe tire. Check the sidewall of the tire and look for the date of manufacture, for example, 0312 which would be the third week of 2012. If the tires are 7 years old or older you should consider replacing them, no matter the tread wear. And while your checking the DOT Date code, check the sidewalls for cracking. These are better indicators for tire replacement than wear.