How to keep propane from freezing
I am totally new to RVs. I bought one due to divorce and financially not being able to afford an apartment. I got this RV for a song and my plan is to live in it through the winter until Spring. Overa...
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We spent 2 winters here in Billings, MT in an RV.
The first one was in a 32 foot Suncrest motorhome. I skirted it with Reflectix insulation, and covered the grill and windshield with the same.
I built the water line out of hard copper pipe, insulated and heat taped.
That coach had 2 wates water outlets, so I got a tee and joined them together. I had no freezing problems with the sewer line.
I bought a 100 pound propane cylinder and a 12 foot propane hose. I disconnected the line at the motorhome regulator, added the 12 foot hose, put the regulator on the 100 lb. cylinder, and connected the hose. When it was time to refill the 100 pounder, I put the regulator back on the motorhome tank, turned the gas on, and took the 100 pounder for refill. When I got back, I shut the MH tank off, removed the regulator, and installed it back on the 100 lb. cylinder.
The second winter we spent in a 32 foot fifth wheel. I did not skirt it. I built another water line from hard copper pipe, insulated and heat taped. BUT, this time I leased an 80 gallon propane tank. The vendor brought it out, hooked it up, and kept it full all winter. That was simply wonderful. In fact, I have that same tank running the kitchen range in our S&B house.
Both winters we had no problem with the propane freezing, even at temperatures of 20 below zero F. or even lower.
Some things that have not been mentioned about full time living in an RV:
You may leave the grey tank dump valve open all the time if you wish. all drain lines have water traps so no sewer gas should come into the living area.
DO NOT leave the black tank dump valve open all the time! the liquid will drain out, but most of the solids will lay on the bottom of the tank, and may dry into the dreaded "poop pyramid". Removing the pyramid is a nasty, dirty job. Dump the black tank only when it is half full or more. When we are out with the coach, we dump the dish water into the toilet to ensure that there is plenty of water so all the solids will flush out of the tank.
There are 14X14 inch "pillows" available to stuff into the roof vents. they work great.
To cut down on cold drafts, get the plastic storm window kits and put the plastic on the inside of the window frames. It helps.
The door on the motorhome was leaky, so we went to a thrift store and got an old blanket to hang over the door. It looked tacky, and was somewhat of a nuisance, but it stopped the cold air.
Be careful with using auxiliary heat, such as electric heaters. It could very well be that the furnace is ducted to the wet bays and tank bays to prevent them from freezing. If so, and the auxiliary heat stops the furnace from running, it could result in getting froze up. Needless to say, that is not a desired result.
All the above is based purely on personal experience in spending two Montana winters living full time in 2 different RVs. Your experience may vary.
Good luck.
The first one was in a 32 foot Suncrest motorhome. I skirted it with Reflectix insulation, and covered the grill and windshield with the same.
I built the water line out of hard copper pipe, insulated and heat taped.
That coach had 2 wates water outlets, so I got a tee and joined them together. I had no freezing problems with the sewer line.
I bought a 100 pound propane cylinder and a 12 foot propane hose. I disconnected the line at the motorhome regulator, added the 12 foot hose, put the regulator on the 100 lb. cylinder, and connected the hose. When it was time to refill the 100 pounder, I put the regulator back on the motorhome tank, turned the gas on, and took the 100 pounder for refill. When I got back, I shut the MH tank off, removed the regulator, and installed it back on the 100 lb. cylinder.
The second winter we spent in a 32 foot fifth wheel. I did not skirt it. I built another water line from hard copper pipe, insulated and heat taped. BUT, this time I leased an 80 gallon propane tank. The vendor brought it out, hooked it up, and kept it full all winter. That was simply wonderful. In fact, I have that same tank running the kitchen range in our S&B house.
Both winters we had no problem with the propane freezing, even at temperatures of 20 below zero F. or even lower.
Some things that have not been mentioned about full time living in an RV:
You may leave the grey tank dump valve open all the time if you wish. all drain lines have water traps so no sewer gas should come into the living area.
DO NOT leave the black tank dump valve open all the time! the liquid will drain out, but most of the solids will lay on the bottom of the tank, and may dry into the dreaded "poop pyramid". Removing the pyramid is a nasty, dirty job. Dump the black tank only when it is half full or more. When we are out with the coach, we dump the dish water into the toilet to ensure that there is plenty of water so all the solids will flush out of the tank.
There are 14X14 inch "pillows" available to stuff into the roof vents. they work great.
To cut down on cold drafts, get the plastic storm window kits and put the plastic on the inside of the window frames. It helps.
The door on the motorhome was leaky, so we went to a thrift store and got an old blanket to hang over the door. It looked tacky, and was somewhat of a nuisance, but it stopped the cold air.
Be careful with using auxiliary heat, such as electric heaters. It could very well be that the furnace is ducted to the wet bays and tank bays to prevent them from freezing. If so, and the auxiliary heat stops the furnace from running, it could result in getting froze up. Needless to say, that is not a desired result.
All the above is based purely on personal experience in spending two Montana winters living full time in 2 different RVs. Your experience may vary.
Good luck.
