Good morning,I have a 1997 Thor Residency MH I bought about a month ago and the hydraulic jacks and slide (2) do not work. The electric motor has been replaced and seems to work/spin over fine. The tank is full of fresh/clean fluid and there are no leaks on any of the hoses/jacks/connecters etc. I just recently replaced the shuttle valve (based on my discussions with HWH) but that did not fix the problem. When I push the lift button for the jacks the motor spins (very fast), but nothing happens. If I push the retract buttons for the jacks it just clicks (probably because the jacks are already retracted). The hydraulic slide switched click if pushed in or out, but nothing happens. I even increased the pump pressure, per HWHs recommendation, but adjusting a screw on the side of the assembly, but that didn't help.HWH said I need to replace the hydraulic pumps/tank assembly. Before I spend about $800.00, I wanted to ask if anyone else has any ideas or experience? Can this part be rebuilt by anyone or does anyone besides HWH sell this part. The information on the pump/tank/motor assembly is:Pump/Motor/Tank: AP0588S.N.: 10641Assembly: AP10514Thanks again.

On the end of the electric pump motor is a metal keyway. THAT can fall out and if NOT installed the motor does NOT engage the pump assbly. The motor will do as you state---spins fast because there is no torque on the motor. Remove the electric motor and you will see how this keyway engages. You will also see if it is GONE. DougThe older Parker pump motors had this keyway. Since you have a 1997, the odds are you have this keyway. Newer HWH pump motors do not have this keyway

You will probably get some solid information from this list on your problem but it sounds like even HWH is stumped. I too would be afraid to purchase a new pump on their recommendations. I'll give you the best advice your gonna get. Hope and pray that dougrainer will see your query and respond. He is brilliant when it comes to this type of problem.

It sounds like the circuit is open and it is just pumping oil through the valve bank and back to the tank. The valves can be operated manually using a sharp point, screwdriver like. Presuming your unit is similar, you should see two or three cylindrical valves that are horizontal on the top of the unit. If you look at the end of each there is a small hole. With the pump motor running, depressing these inside the hole should move the valves and produce an actuation. I would also check that the dump valve is not jammed in the open position, I question this as the cause as you said you heard the click of the dump valve. The retract, or dump valve operates without the need of the motor. Hope this is of some help.

Thanks for the replies. I did look at the valves on top of the unit. I have a total of 8 (4 for the jacks and 4 for the 2 slides). However, there is only a "T" handle on the back and the wires going in. No hole or adjustment spot. One thing I forgot to mention is that even when the electric motor is running, there is no fluid being moved by the pump. I took off a U shaped tube on the top that directs fluid to the shuttle valve and there was no fluid in it, leading me to believe that the pump isn't doing anything even though the motor is spinning.

ThorResidencyNewbee wrote:Thanks for the replies. I did look at the valves on top of the unit. I have a total of 8 (4 for the jacks and 4 for the 2 slides). However, there is only a "T" handle on the back and the wires going in. No hole or adjustment spot. One thing I forgot to mention is that even when the electric motor is running, there is no fluid being moved by the pump. I took off a U shaped tube on the top that directs fluid to the shuttle valve and there was no fluid in it, leading me to believe that the pump isn't doing anything even though the motor is spinning.READ What I stated. Doug

HWH Hydraulic system problem - recommendations

24 Replies

ThorResidencyNe
Explorer
May 05, 2013
I did. I got the seller to drop the price $6,000 because the slides and generator did not work. I was able to get the generator working by just changing the fuel line to the tank. I was really lucky. Thanks.
havasu
Explorer
May 05, 2013
Did you buy the coach cheaply because of non-working slides/jacks?

If so, congratulations!!
hershey
Explorer
May 05, 2013
WOW!!!!!!!!!! I know just how you feel. Perseverance paid off with big dividends.
You just can't imagine how many people have just made a mental notation on your fix. Thanks for getting back to us with the solution. Too many people finally arrive with a fix for a problem and never get back to the forum with the results.
ThorResidencyNe
Explorer
May 04, 2013
Well, great news. I was playing around with the system yesterday and decided to try and spin the pump over. I went to Home Depot and bought an adapter for my cordless drill that was meant to install "I" hooks. I spun the pump the direction the electric motor was spinning an nothing happened as expected. However, when I reversed the direction, I felt a load on the drill after a few seconds. So, I removed the "U" shaped tube by the shuttle valve and tried again and WOW, fluid came out. So I hooked the tube back up and reinstalled the motor. (The prior owner had the RV worked on at a dealership and they replaced the electric motor and had concluded it was probably the pump that was the cause of the jacks/slides not working).

I then reversed the positive and negative wires on the motor, checked for any issues, then turned the power to the RV on and tested the jacks. I was SHOCKED to hear the jacks coming down!!! Three of the jacks came down. I need to check on the fourth. I then went into the RV, heart pumping with excitement, and tried the slides. AMAZINGLY, both slideouts worked!!!! I was in shock since I have never seen the slides or jacks work. It was a very exciting day.

Anyways, it's still hard to believe the dealership installed the power leads incorrectly. I never originally considered that but am happy to have everything working.

Thanks again to everyone for their help on this.
dougrainer
Nomad
May 03, 2013
ThorResidencyNewbee wrote:
Is there suppose to be any other parts here?

Thanks again for the help.

Good pics, yes you have no other parts needed. That keyway is still on the pump. Looks like the pump is bad OR long shot is the pick up tube in the reservoir tank is not immersed in fluid or the screen is clogged. Doug
ThorResidencyNe
Explorer
May 03, 2013
Is there suppose to be any other parts here?

Thanks again for the help.
ThorResidencyNe
Explorer
May 03, 2013
dougrainer wrote:
Between the Electric motor slot shaft and the interior PUMP spline is a keyway AND Spring. The spring is about the size of a ballpoint pen spring. Are you positive you have this keyway AND spring between the 2???? If you have the keyway but NO spring, it will not engage. Doug

When I removed the electric motor from the pump housing, there is a slot in the end of the electric motor shaft that fits perfectly onto the "flat blade looking" end on the pump assembly. I do not see any keyway or spring. However, these 2 parts mesh up perfectly. Here are some pictures.

">Electric motor

">Pump side
azpete
Explorer
May 03, 2013
careful with tightening the tee handles. if they are movable, and not corroded tight, they only have to be finger tight, not turned down with pliers. they tend to snap off.
there is, as doug said, an adapter and spring that goes between the pump motor shaft and the keyway on the pump assm. if that spring is missing,just use another one that fits. hwh can tell you what size. if the adapter is gone, its a major problem. more often than not, both are gone.
its often easier to buy another pump and motor assembly than to spend days looking for that part.
chucknmare
Explorer
May 03, 2013
Righty tighty
Timster
Explorer
May 01, 2013
i have a 96 Thor Residency with the HWH levelers and 2 slides,i know from experience that the "T" handles must be seated closed or the fluid will bypass cylinders,just cant remember which way is closed