Installing a residential refer...DIY...UPDATE 11/16

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For power I created a separate system by adding four AGM batteries (we boondock often) and separate transfer switch, 1000W PSW Inverter, and a seperate 100 Amp charger at the rear of the MH. Found a sealed area on the side of the engine compartment that I was able to get into and put the three power items inside it. I'm using the block heater outlet as my shore power supply and I had to run a 120V line under the MH up to the basement bay under the refer. Getting it to the refer was easy as there are all kinds of wires in this area as you can see. Also you can see the two 110V outlets (one from my MSW inverter) that powered the 1200, which will be my backup if something goes wrong with my new system or when snowbirding on shore power.


I hate to admit how many hour I spent making platforms to hold the batteries, even having to take out my back up lights to make room for two of them and then sealing the holes from the lights and putting new lights on the outside.
Added a volt/amp meter so I can keep track of the new system which is accessed through the trap door in the floor for the engine. Two of the new batteries are at the bottom of the picture and you can see the inverter in the unused area I found under the floor.

well done

That was quite a project. Good job.

Ivylog wrote:
I bought a Whirlpool WRT771RWYB 21 cu ft refer as I hoped it was short enough to fit in the hole of my NoCold 1200. Cutting out the board at the top that holds the 1200 in still left me 1/2" short on the needed height of 65 1/2". The DW did not want to give up the large drawer under the 1200... So I cut out the 3/4" plywood floor and put in side rails for the edge of the refer to sit on. Sorry but I do not know how to rotae pictures on my Iphone.

Filled in the bottom with 2 pieces of 1/2" foil faced insulation that I had behind the 1200. Added four steel angle brackets at the front cross piece to help hold the weight of the refer that cantilevers 6" out from it. Not shown in this picture.


I've had my 1200 out so many times it's something I do by myself using a platform to slide it out on to and then I can slide it to the floor and then walk it out of the way or in this case, up front. Was able to get the 1200 out the side window without the four doors on and putting two boards over the coils/fins so I could slide it out on it's back. Used the 3/4' scrap plywood on top of the steering wheel to help slide it out. With some help from my John Deere skid steer I was able to get it out by myself.


Getting the new on in took some help from the DW to get it to slide in without hurting the driver's chair. Getting it into the hole took some effort as it's a tight fit, but we got it to go.


Without the passenger's side LR slide out the bottom door will not open all the way. The driver's side slide comes in the same amount as this new refer stick into the hallway so other than the door not opening all the way when traveling, I'm happy with how it's turned out and I did not have to modify the drawer under it.

Welcome to the "Formerly known as Norcold Owner's Club"...Dennis

I have to say, the most impressive part of this for me is sliding the fridge through the window with the skid steer.. by yourself. And now I'm embarrassed about having trouble getting wrenches in to get at the top bolt for my front shocks. ;)

Excellent job, and congrats to you and your DW for completing the project yourselves.

OK Dennis, how did you rotate my pictures? Thanks!!! Like you I went the Amish route which helped the 1200 operation and I may miss checking the remote temperate reading several times a day. Anyone need a Amish cooling unit?

This EnergyStar Whirpool 21 CuFt Refer has a energy guide of $44/year and 410,000 kWh/year or 1,123 W/day or 94 Amps/day... So out of my 500 AH battery bank I should be able to go two days before getting to 50% and needing to recharge. $44/year is 12 cents a day... It's amazing how energy efficient they have gotten these things.

Bought these to hold the doors shut when traveling but may have to paint them black for the DW... guess she earned it helping to get it in.:B



Had some black plastic paint so I installed the door locks. Need one fitting to hookup the ice maker and that should complete this project.



*I would hate to pay someone $100/hour to do this project as the labor on my PSW power system would have been more than $1000 and removing the side window and modifying the cabinet plus installing would be more than $1000 also. OOPS, without a JD (John Deere) you will have an hour with three guys... $1300+

If you are not tall then installing a top freezer unit closer to the floor would be my recommendation.
Just thought I was finished with this project... have to put the side window back in.:S

Two quick things...first, before you hook up your water line, get one of the thin water filters. Mine had enough room in the back to put the filter there for the ice maker. Access was through the existing inspection panel for the Norcold. Second, I used gorilla tape to close off the panel on the inside so there's no draft from the outside. The residentials don't need that much air.

Oh! and you saved $400 by sliding that sucker through the window. No one believes they'll fit. That's what I paid for mine to be put in the living room. They pulled out the emergency window, slid the Norcold out onto the forks and reversed the procedure to put the Samsung in the living room. I installed it from there in the campground. Pretty easy and now we can have ice cream sandwiches that stay hard...:)...excellent job...Dennis

I was just at HDepot getting water line fittings and they have basically the same Whirlpool refer on sale for $648 plus $99 for a ice maker... I bought mine at a Sear's Outlet for $500 including ice maker, but that was six months ago as scratch and dent. In years of looking this is only refer over 16 cu ft I found that was not 70" tall.
WRT311FZDW... white
WRT311FZDB... black
SS for $949.

PS: OK Dennis, how did you rotate my pictures?