I level before the slides are out and then tweak it after they have been deployed. I pay special attention to never having any wheels off the ground. I do not chock the wheels. Emergency brake of course is engaged. My coach seems to lack stability as the slightest movement in the coach is noticeable. Is this common to everyone with the gas chassis? I believe that the DP with air ride that let's out air when stopped is much more stabile and of course the large DP's that constantly level are totally out of my ball park. Just curious if all these years I missed something.

Mine is gas and very stable when parked. I do the same order as you but don't try to adjust after the slides are out because it is stable before putting slides out.

The more you extend your leveling jacks, the less stable the RV will feel inside. This is especially true if you lift high enough to bring a wheel or two off the ground.On the flipside, the less you extend the jacks (use more blocks), the more rock solid it will feel inside. Next time before you deploy the jacks, try putting some large blocks under your jacks before extending them, so they don't have to extend as far. If you have to lift enough to take a tire off the ground, drive that tire, side up on blocks first to prevent such. You may well find that using more blocks and raising the jacks less, results in a more stable RV inside. I have.Tires help provide lateral stability when parked, so the more weight you keep on them when parked, the more stable, solid the RV will feel. Thats why its not a good idea to lift one off the ground unless absolutely necessary.Yes, diesel pushers have an advantage when it comes to leveling, since they can dump air and bring the coach down very low before extending jacks to level. End result from this means that the coach sits lower, jacks not having to extend as far. Thats why they can be more stable when parked.I've found over the years, that people frequently get very lazy when it comes to leveling, when they move up to a Motorhome. Its as if the leveling blocks they used for years without a problem with towable RVs, suddenly become something they just HATE to have to use. Don't be that way, haha. :)

Makes sense. Thanks.willald wrote:The more you extend your leveling jacks, the less stable the RV will feel inside. This is especially true if you lift high enough to bring a wheel or two off the ground.On the flipside, the less you extend the jacks (use more blocks), the more rock solid it will feel inside. Next time before you deploy the jacks, try putting some large blocks under your jacks before extending them, so they don't have to extend as far. If you have to lift enough to take a tire off the ground, drive that tire, side up on blocks first to prevent such. You may well find that using more blocks and raising the jacks less, results in a more stable RV inside. I have.Tires help provide lateral stability when parked, so the more weight you keep on them when parked, the more stable, solid the RV will feel. Thats why its not a good idea to lift one off the ground unless absolutely necessary.Yes, diesel pushers have an advantage when it comes to leveling, since they can dump air and bring the coach down very low before extending jacks to level. End result from this means that the coach sits lower, jacks not having to extend as far. Thats why they can be more stable when parked.I've found over the years, that people frequently get very lazy when it comes to leveling, when they move up to a Motorhome. Its as if the leveling blocks they used for years without a problem with towable RVs, suddenly become something they just HATE to have to use. Don't be that way, haha. :)

Goldencrazy.......Congrats on your new coach. Take a few minutes and add a description of your coach to your signature, so when you ask questions we know what type of coach you're talking about.It would also be nice to know what type of jack system you have. On my HWH leveling system, (auto level) once the system has completed auto leveling, it checks that all jacks are touching the ground. If I tweak it after that, it can leave one jack not touching. This destabilizes the coach.On occasion, you get a campsite that requires you to extend the front or rear quite a bit. The further the jacks are extended, the less stable they are. On those occasions, it might help to put some blocks under the jacks that are being over extended to reduce wobble. Just be careful of lifting the rears off of the ground.

Everything mentioned so far is correctBut nobody mentioned getting your "sea legs"Just how much do you use the RV, and how easily does your equilibrium adjust to changesSome people never adjust, and feel every foot step they or anyone makes as movement in the RVOther people especially the grand kids, never notice anythingToo them the RV is just as solid as the concrete sidewalk

leveler/stabilizer | Good Sam Community

Billinwoodland
Explorer
Mar 10, 2015
FIRE UP wrote:

To Goldencrazy,
Your procedure is spot on. Get level, then slides out,

I think it depends on the coach. My Monaco manual calls for deploying slides first, followed by leveling.
FIRE_UP
Explorer
Mar 11, 2015
Billinwoodland wrote:
FIRE UP wrote:

To Goldencrazy,
Your procedure is spot on. Get level, then slides out,

I think it depends on the coach. My Monaco manual calls for deploying slides first, followed by leveling.

Bill,
Yep, I think I've seen this before where Monaco owners have stated what you're saying. To me, it surely doesn't make sense. To me, if you create a level, stable, "multi-plane" square platform, by leveling, then the slides can extend without binding or, having any GRAVITATIONAL pull, one way or another. And, as we all know, some of those slides are pretty darn long and big.

But, I didn't design the coaches so, it's not my say-so on how procedures are laid out. If Monaco or, any other brand calls for slides first, then level, well, it is what it is. Now, if someone can explain the logic in extending slides first then leveling, maybe I'd "see the light" so to speak.

But, when I watch my galley slide, which is seriously heavy and, has that last point roll-down to make a level floor when fully extended, I can't imagine it being extended when I'm un-level.
Scott
Billinwoodland
Explorer
Mar 11, 2015
Maybe Monaco assumes the coach is close? But the manual doesn't specify. There was a brief discussion about this on the Monaco owners forum. I see your point, but I think I will continue to follow the manufacturer.
Best
Bill
DSDP_Don
Explorer
Mar 11, 2015
"FIRE UP"......Here's why the old Monaco recommended their procedure. First, they used a three jack (point) leveling system. Second, Monaco's chassis would be considered a monocoque chassis. When Monaco installed their slides, the coach was fully aired up at ride height. Their slide openings were square. Even though a campground site may not be level, the Monaco chassis would sit pretty rigid, disregarding the unevenness while aired up. Consequently, the slide openings were still square. You deploy the slides, dump the air and then level.

Many will argue this procedure to ad nauseam, but it worked for the Monaco coaches for many years. Newmar recently changed their procedure on their full wall slides to extending first and leveling second. On my FWS, I determine the level of the site before I extend. If the site is fairly level, I level first. If the site is not very level, I deploy my FWS first and then level.
doxiemom11
Explorer II
Mar 11, 2015
We find that we do need to lift a little weight off the suspension or the coach will move. We do not by any means put most of the weight on the jacks. There is plenty on the tires yet. We also use a couple of blocks so they do not have to be extended a long ways. Our coach is pretty stable.
happy-2
Explorer
Mar 11, 2015
I to have a gas rig,but I always use rubber jack pads,My pads are made out of a stall mat,bought a tractor supply for 33.00, it gave me a lot of 12x12 pads,i use 2 pads under each jack all the time,stable great,no movement.I have enough to put under tires in the winter.

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