Forum Discussion
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- Meme_RayExplorer
Rich & Cheri' wrote:
My center hood latch also came off. The side hinges also broke away from the hood. I bought a fiberglass repair kit from Advance Auto and reattached both hinges and the latch. Real easy. Much stronger than original too.
Thanks for the tip - Meme - Rich___Cheri_ExplorerMy center hood latch also came off. The side hinges also broke away from the hood. I bought a fiberglass repair kit from Advance Auto and reattached both hinges and the latch. Real easy. Much stronger than original too.
- Meme_RayExplorer
mtollin wrote:
Rich, or anyone... do you have a link or part numbers for the plug/wire/engine cooling system? I remember seeing the Workhorse part numbers somewhere, but have searched the forums ands web and can't seem to find them. I was turned down for the work, and would still like to have it done. Thanks.
we had our plugs changed with part # 88984270 wire kit 2.239
the airflow kit was installed on our unit per workhorse at no change the part # is W8005026. I called workhorse and complained that we had changed our plug wires twice at our own cost and said that something must be wrong for this to keep happening. Workhorse said that Fleetwood did not allow enough room for proper ventilation under the hood and authorized the air flow kit at their expense.
Good luck. You just need to talk to a sympathetic customer service rep and let them know that you just want a fix so that you can stop replacing wires every year.
We have had not burned plugs since installation of the new wires and air flow kit. Since I have said this I feel like I need to cross all my fingers and toes for continued good luck.
We recently had the center latch on our hood break. Has anyone else had this problem? It seems to be a redundant latch and is not really needed but we have not been on the road without it yet. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Meme - FrontRangeRVerExplorer
mtollin wrote:
On the UltraPower... I tried it and it did nothing for me. Not power, not mpg. In fact my mpg went down, they tried other programs, went back to stock and they gave me a refund.
I'm now looking into Banks.
We just got back from a 2,000 mile trip with the stock ECM , and we are also happy that we received a refund on the ultrapower ECM tune after a year and a half of owning it.
Our mileage increased almost 1 mpg on this trip after replacing the ultrapower ECM with the stock ECM....and that is with the generator running! :S I could tell no difference in power with it or without it, hence the return.
Banks is the tried and true improvement apparently. - LobstahExplorerSeems to me you could use a piece of PVC pipe? Sounds like it's serving somewhat of a "bushing" function?
I'll check my 36D when I get outside later and see if I can take a look at what you're having trouble with.
Jim - ParrotguyExplorerI have an '05 Pace Arrow 36D with the full wall slide, which has a support roller mounted in the middle of the 23' long topper. Twice now the push on nut which holds the 5 &1/4" long roller tube on to a steel rod has fallen off and now I have lost the roller tube part. The roller is about 3/4" in diameter.
I have searched for this part to no avail. Has anyone found a part number and source to buy this part? I was wondering also if perhaps there is a simple substitute item I could slip on the steel rod to accomplish the same result. - Papa_MelExplorerThanks for the info. I will check it out as soon as we travel again.
Papa Mel - Fyr_guyExplorerI agree with it being the shear pin along the drive motor on one side or other.
- bricotExplorer
Papa Mel wrote:
My 2004 Pace Arrow, 37C makes a terrible noise when extending and retracting the sofa/dinette slideout. It makes a sound like wood scraping on metal. Also, it will hang up a little when retracting. I stop it for a second, then continue to retract. So far OK, but the noise is troublesome. Any ideas?
Thanks, Papa Mel
Is one side tending to come in first? With the slide out, climb under and look at the drive shaft that retracts the slide (long square tube attached to drive motor usually with a quick release pin), make sure your bolts at both ends of the shaft are still there and tight. Mine sheared one end off so that end would spin (occasionally grabbing on the sheared part of the bolt that stayed inside the pin). Tell tale sign for me that something was happening was one side would start to move before the other.
Trim work around the slide-out intact, not dragging.
Also isn't there some glide strips along the side of the slide-out that slide between the body and slide-out? Something else to check - Papa_MelExplorerMy 2004 Pace Arrow, 37C makes a terrible noise when extending and retracting the sofa/dinette slideout. It makes a sound like wood scraping on metal. Also, it will hang up a little when retracting. I stop it for a second, then continue to retract. So far OK, but the noise is troublesome. Any ideas?
Thanks, Papa Mel
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