looking for owners of 2004-2005 Pace Arrows

Jim Bakker wrote:
Subject: replacing toilet seal

The toilet in my 2004 doesn't hold water. I've cleaned the ball and the seal and tightened the clamp; at least one of those things helped, but didn't entirely stop the leak. So I guess it's time to replace the seal. Can someone who has done that on a SeaLand 110 toilet tell me what's involved, how difficult it is, etc?

HI Jim,
Like stated above, it is not that hard just follow the directions that comes with the parts. Also, a hint that I found the hard way. When you replace the the seal, buy the complete kit with springs, seals, water valve and floor seal. It cost more but then everything is new. I replaced the ball and seal only then a few months later the water valve went out and I had to tear it all apart again. That time I bought everything and replaced it all.

Paul

It is not difficult to replace the seal. Just make sure you get the right side up. The instructions are in the manual.

Did you clean the "inside" of the seal Jim? Mine came with a plastic stick with one end like sandpaper and a cream. You stick this behind the seal with a "cream" that comes with the stick and it cleans the hard deposits from between the bowl and the seal, I was amazed at the gunk in there. You need to clean both sides of the seal. mine is as good as new after doing this, just cleaning the seal on the ball side didn't do much.

Subject: replacing toilet seal

The toilet in my 2004 doesn't hold water. I've cleaned the ball and the seal and tightened the clamp; at least one of those things helped, but didn't entirely stop the leak. So I guess it's time to replace the seal. Can someone who has done that on a SeaLand 110 toilet tell me what's involved, how difficult it is, etc?

Well hello boys. We full time in our 07 38P Pace Arrow. Talk about slide leaks!!!! My curb side slide was leaking like a water fall. I had to remove all of the wood facing, it was beginning to rot. Then I had to remove the top aluminum rail and reseal it. I am now in the process of replacing the wood facing. My DW says its a rolling piece of S#$%. But it'll be put back together better than when we got it.

Looking for a loud squeak near the floor under the drivers feet. I looked in the front wheel wells in front of the tires. The "bumber/frame" has a "Y" shaped brace going up to a cross support under the floor. I found that "Y" support was busted in half just below the "Y". Being cautious I checked under the passenger side .... same thing. Just wanted to give a heads up. The noise on the drivers side just started. The passenger side looks like it has been that way for sometime but no noise.
Welding shop here we come. I'll try for structural warranty but doubt I'll have much luck.
2005 37C W24 chassis.

Rich & Cheri,

Thanks for the info. When I get home it will be fixed.

Mel

http://www.irv2.com/forums/ has a special forum for Fleetwood owners. It's a great place to get the kind of information you're looking for.

Jack

I replaced the water line to the icemaker on my refrigerator, located in the slideout in my 37C. The upper nipple is located behind the upper vent on the outside of the coach. The lower nipple is at the solenoid behind the lower vent in the right hand side. I used a length of clear plastic tubing I bought at Lowe's. There is a knitted fiberglas sleeve on the tube with an electrical heater strip inside which needs to go over the tubing. There was no need to do anything inside the refrigerator.

The refrigerator (NDR1292) is located in the slideout on the 37C.