looking for owners of 2004-2005 Pace Arrows

Regarding my post above I found what I've been looking for at this web site. Weather Seal It comes in a 25-ft length for $57.00.

It's slightly larger and a better rounded bulb then the original Fleetwood uses, or used on my rig anyway. It really fits good. I had modified the brackets for the old seal, even though it still didn't do a very good job, but I removed my modifications so the brackets are back to original and the doors shut and seals perfectly.

Definitely recommend this type of repair. I'm ordering more of the rubber seal to do the other doors. It's a little expensive, but as usual we the owners have to fix what Fleetwood should have done in the first place.

Good idea...I'll take a look at that method.
Just as soon as the snow is gone so I can get to the door ;)

Jim

Lobstah wrote:
Yes, I agree. My doors don't seal as well as I'd like.
I also have an issue with the weather stripping/seal on my screen door...it's fine for the bottom half of the door, but about 2/3s the way up, on the left edge, the whole gasket rolls inward. No idea who to fix it other than with several small dabs of gorilla glue to try and keep it in position.

Jim

Jim, we have a similar problem. The weather strip rolls inward when you close the door. The screen door catches the top left corner & rolls it. We had the weather strip replaced & it stopped for awhile but with increased usage it started again. So, I took several strips of black electrical tape & taped the weather strip back so that the screen door doesn't catch it. So far it's working great. When the weather is warm some of the strips lose their grip & come loose - I just put on new strips AND no one notices the tape because it's black & so is the door frame & weather strip.

Try that B4 you use the glue.

Yes, I agree. My doors don't seal as well as I'd like.
I also have an issue with the weather stripping/seal on my screen door...it's fine for the bottom half of the door, but about 2/3s the way up, on the left edge, the whole gasket rolls inward. No idea who to fix it other than with several small dabs of gorilla glue to try and keep it in position.

Jim

You can tighten the compartment sealing by using a ball peen hammer against the metal strap catches to bend them in some more. This will result in you needing to use a hip bump to get one side to latch (due to the seal pressure. I have had no leakage problems, even when driving in a hard rain.

Does anyone else have a problem with proper sealing of the outside compartments on their Pace Arrow?

This has been an irritation for me from the getgo. The Kitchen slideout in particular. On my 36B Pace Arrow the compartment doors do not even come close to sealing when they are closed. There's really no adjustment either. I think Fleetwood did a very poor job when designing these door seals and latch mechanism's.

When mine are closed they are snug at the top and about half way down. But further down and all along the bottom the door is at least a 1/4" away from contacting the bulb seal. And there is no way to adjust the door to go in any further. The cheap plastic catches (which tend to break easily) latch very loosely to the metal U-shaped retainers. The least they could have done was used a better and larger seal.

I've tried all kinds of things to seal these things properly with not much luck. I've been looking for replacement rubber seals that have a larger sealing bulb and so far haven't found any.

If anyone knows of a good supplier, please let me know.

wa0mqe,
Thanks for the excellent info regarding batteries and how they're connected. This is the first I've heard of replacing the inverter, and frankly, not sure how I'd know if the one in there now is factory installed or not. Is there an easy way to tell? The coach had new batteries when I picked it up in Mesa last April. I have not load tested my batteries yet.

Jim

Lobstah... The switches do indeed isolate the batteries from their circuits. Meaning of course turning them off will kill the power, and also prevent anything from draining them. To be honest I can't remember which is which but I think "Main" is the house batteries and "Aux" is the chassis battery. But I could be wrong, the way to tell is turn on one of your ceiling lights and flip a switch, the one that causes the light to go out is the Coach batteries.

Also, the Coach batteries, the two under the steps is what powers the generator. The Chassis battery, in front of the engine only controls engine and automotive functions.

Remember even when you think nothing is on you still have devices pulling current from your coach batteries. The propane detector, the carbon monoxide detector, etc. Which brings me to the question, when was the last time you tested your batteries? I mean a load test. I assume you do check the water level from time to time. Do you still have the factory converter or have you changed it out to a good state of the art Inverter/Charger with multi-level charging? The stock converters are very poor chargers and will overcharge batteries and ruin them.

Thank you for the replies regarding the Ultra Guard on a 36B. I am concerend about attaching a deflector below the hitch simply because it bottoms out now on occassion when coming across a sever road dip (such as when leaving the Olive Pit parking lot in Corning, CA. or some gas stations regardless of how carefully you try to exit).

I think I will talk to some other suppliers to see what they can suggest as well.

Thanks again. This is such a helpful forum.

I have an Ultraguard and installed it near the fuel tank as close to the rear wheels as possible. My spare is under the coach behind or after the Ultraguard. If I put it any place else, the UG would be in the way when I would need my spare tire. I attached the UG to the I-beam of the frame right behind the fuel tank by chains and rings. It will move or swing if it hits anything during travel. Be sure to have at least 5” of ground surface between the road and UG. You need at least 5” clearance to have room for the rear of the coach to dip when a tire is on uneven surface, especially when you are traveling on gravel roads or on park entrance. Also, the lower the UG in the rain has a tendency to fan the water on the road and make a spray which gets all over the toad from bumper to bumper.

What happens that if the UG is too low, it will drag the road surface and rake-blow-drag-spin any object up and bounce on the road and on your toad. I figure by having the UG near the rear wheels, a rock has time to bounce off the rear wheel and hit either my mud flap, UG, or both and control most if not all the debris. I don’t pull a toad yet, but am getting ready for the day. The reason DP has their mud guards on the rear near the bumper are to keep any oil or grease from the engine getting on their toad. Gas coaches don’t have or need that type of installation..........