Looking into getting a class C motorhome

Re Rear bedrooms with RV Queen sized beds: You will need a rig that is at least 27-28 feet long to get a rear bedroom with "RV Queen sized bed". Ours has access on the right side, left side is against back wall, end of bed has narrow walk way access. A few have access on both sides, some have a slide in the bedroom provide better access for getting in and out of bed and making bed. Slides are nice but some must be extended or they block access to things when retracted. Slides can have water leak and mechanical problems.
Having owned a rig with no rear bedroom, I recommend a rear bedroom/bed for your comfort. Climbing over your bed partner to go to the bathroom and using a ladder in your bare feet, in the dark, is a pain in the foot, etc. Young-uns without arthritis, etc., don't seem to mind sleeping in the overhead.

We bought our '98 Coachmen with 110K miles on it; the entire camper and chassis was/is in better condition than most of the others we looked at- all which had half the mileage--- the others were going to need tires, tune-ups, A/C units in the cab, brakes (rusted rotors) lines (due to rust)-- instead we this one which had its tune up, all maintenance records, recent tires, etc--- one owner unit who drove it and maintained it----- vehicles are the same--- I have seen high mileage cars which are a much better buy than low mileage..... Good luck with your search: we upgraded from travel trailer and love the convience offered by the Class C!

ron.dittmer wrote:
On the opposite side of the spectrum, if the rig is stored indoors in a controlled environment, then the low miles become an asset.

Well .... maybe not if the battery box is in shambles because of removing/reinstalling the batteries for every outing. :B

(P.S. Ron, just kidding .... of course!)

Most RVS that i've seen with low mileage have sat for several years - that's why the owner decides to sell: because life got in the way and they didn't have the time to enjoy it. I think collector cars are a bit different because you can drive them to the store for a quick run.

toedtoes wrote:
I have found that even if stored inside, if the RV hasn't been used in several years, then there will most likely be issues. Part of it is the lack of movement to parts that need regular movement; part of it is the idea that as long as it isn't outside, it will be fine - critters, moisture, vandalism, etc. can occur during inside storage and if the owner doesn't do a maintenance check on a regular basis, lots can go wrong while sitting inside.

Several Years???? Agreed! My assumption is that the rig is getting limited annual use and skip a year at most as happens with collector cars.

I collected a car in the back of my heated garage for 3 years covered, sitting on blocks. When I put the battery in, it fired right up and ran well for the balance of my ownership. I was surprised that the age of the fuel and the amount of Sta-Bil in it, didn't affect that first tank-full of driving. It never suffered a thing from the time asleep.

There is also a big difference between being stored in a barn versus a heated garage. But I don't knock the barn. That is a very good situation....a second best scenario.

I have found that even if stored inside, if the RV hasn't been used in several years, then there will most likely be issues. Part of it is the lack of movement to parts that need regular movement; part of it is the idea that as long as it isn't outside, it will be fine - critters, moisture, vandalism, etc. can occur during inside storage and if the owner doesn't do a maintenance check on a regular basis, lots can go wrong while sitting inside.

Like with any vehicle, a low mileage motor home can be more troublesome than one with an average amount of miles given it's model year. It all has to do with how the vehicle is stored when not being used. If stored outside in a field of tall grass, left to 4-season elements, that is a worst scenario. On the opposite side of the spectrum, if the rig is stored indoors in a controlled environment, then the low miles become an asset.

A properly stored pristine "original" unmodified 1962 Corvette convertible that was driven 200 miles per year would have approximately original 10,600 miles. That vehicle would be worth an ungodly fortune today in 2015.

The same car stored in a field, driven 200 miles per year (if that is even possible), would be worth so very little.

That is an extreme comparison, but I hope the idea comes across.

In the case with motor homes, there are a lot of issues beyond drivability and outward appearance that present themselves when the rig is left to the elements.

X2 mileage is not the only factor. My motorhome deteriorated a lot more when I did not use it than it did when I was active.

pconroy328 wrote:

awhiting80 wrote:
Is buying a rig with higher miles a bad idea?

Like everything in life - it depends. Ours was high mileage, about 75K. But we knew the previous owners and knew it was well cared for.

The downside to a high mileage, older motorhome is that it was a bit of a struggle to get it financed.

We got a screamin' deal on a well cared for motorhome and helped out someone who needed to sell it. In the end we put the financing burden on the dealer and got it financed.

I would rather buy an RV with more miles on it than fewer. If it sat in storage or outside for most of its life and didn't get used, then there are likely a lot of potential problems that have gone unseen. An engine that sat around for multiple years is going to have more issues than an engine that has been run on a regular basis. Generators need to be exercised. Critters, rot, moisture, etc. all get into RVs and cause problems. If it hasn't been driven in 4 years, then how much effort do you really think the owner put into making sure everything was in proper order, etc.

I had the same thoughts about whether to buy a Class A or C, then I did the research. I spoke to both types of owners about the standard questions, room , comfort, maintenance, reliability, driving, parking, towing, etc. I decided on a Class C with a Ford drive system under 30' so I could get into state parks. I also didn't want a corner bed, combo bathroom shower, where everything gets wet, or a cab-over bed. And, I didn't want to break the bank or pay more than a car for it.

Mine fell into my lap, with the help that my friend owns an RV resale lot. I bought a 1996 Winnebago-Itasca Spirit 29' with walk around center line queen bed, separate shower, and cab-over entertainment center with pull out single mattress, which I took out and now have a very convenient storage drawer, and only 52K miles. All this for $15K, paid in full. Sure, I would have liked to get something newer, like a 2006 with the V10, but not spending a ton of money on a really clean, well taken care of rig, was one of our priorities.

The main reason I decided to go with a Class C was maintenance. I can take mine to any Ford dealer that works on MHs, about 90%. My tires are standard heavy duty truck tires, about $200 a piece including mounting, as opposed to a Class A which can run $400-$500 per tire. My motor is a standard Ford E-350 460ci V8, which I get about 8mpg towing my 2012 Ford Focus on a dolly. The house parts are standard MH things, Atwood WH, Norcold fridge, three burner stove, with oven, microwave, Coleman A/C unit, and now a 30" TV on my entertainment center.

I still have the typical MH owner duties to perform, check the roof for lapping lifting that might cause a leak, vents, tubes, AC, awning, etc.

I am very happy with my choice in getting an older Class C, may not be as cool as a diesel pusher, but I also save tons of money on upkeep over a bigger rig.

Happy hunting and safe travels.