Looking to buy Used Class C - Question on NADA values

NADA is nothing more than a guide and cannot be used as a bible. This is especially true with older units. NADA arrives at their figures by taking average of actual transactions, this becomes unreliable if there only a few transactions for a given model & year, as would be the case with older units. More important than NADA or KBB would be compare to other units on the market in your area. And as previously mentioned-- the condition (water damage) is most important-- roofs have average life span of 10 years, bunk running lights are very prone to leaking causing water damage-- pull the mattress out and carefully inspect the bunk area, check under all windows for soft areas in the walls. You will want to budget $1000/ yr for maintenance & repairs- with that you can still get several years of service from a late '90's rig. Regarding Ford chassis: 1997 was a major upgrade with introfuction of the V10 and Superduty (E450) chassis. Early 2000's saw an upgrade to the motor ( better spark plug sockets, etc).
We bought our '98 Coachmen Lepracaun in 2011 for $9900 with new roof and new tires as well as recent 100K tune up-- excellent running rig with everything working as it should. We did new rear brakes and all new lines in 2012 for $1000. We had work done to the bunk (damm running lights) and steering stabalizer this year for $2000. Next year the tires will be 5 years old- $1000 for new tires.
Good luck with your search...

There are certain items that the manufacturer installs, air condition, carpet, awning, maybe a window awning, sometimes even a generator and there are certain features that the chassis came with from factory cruise control, dash air, tilt steering, reclining seats with arm rests,electric windows.

If the owner installed some items as in inverter, dish antenna, and any other feature, are really of no value added when negotiating a price for he unit, I have a 2001 Ford E-350, it came from the dealer with
Generator, awning, carpet, cruise control, dash air, reclining cab seats, motorized windows, cabin heater, water heater.

I installed an inverter, quieted he water pump, installed a water accumulator, rerouted the generator exhaust in order to install a gentury, installed rear stabilizing jacks, a full rubber skirt, none of this items really count for much should I want to sell the RV, I might get 10,000 max for it this unit is a keeper, the kids can inherit.

Negotiate with the owner and point out that there are certain things that came with the RV from the factories.

navegator

You don't mention the mileage. I know when buying a coach of that age that damage from the elements such as sun damage, water leaks, pets, smoking and just wear and tear can virtually destroy the house part but the mileage does come into play. If it is in perfect condition and runs and drives perfectly I would still pay a couple thousand more for a coach with 20k miles than one with 120k miles.

We got very lucky with our 1999 Shasta Sprite 22' class c. Paid $15,000 three months ago and it's in excellent plus condition with 19,000 miles. Had new tires too. From a older couple who barely used it..generator had 40 hours. Check Craigslist daily and you may get lucky..we did.

I just looked up the NADA value of my 2014 31K Itasca Spirit, which I've had for over 2 years. According to NADA, the average retail value is $4,550 more than what I paid for it. I don't believe that value is anywhere near the real average retail value. Who knew you could buy a new MH, use it for 2 years, and then sell at a profit ? :R

For a more accurate guide call your local bank or credit union.
Ask the the loan value and retail value.
So much depends on the area you are in that NADA is often just a guess.

go to KBB.Com and look at rv's they will list add ons. Most of what you say he is adding price for have little value as add ons. Just like buying a truck or car. You can have hi dollar add ons but in reality they do not add any value. Another good place is your local financial institution. See what they will lend you on the vehicle and base your bid off that. If for example they will only loan $0K then that is your start point. Tires are the big consideration. Most appliances will last the life of the rig with the major exception being the AC unit. also make sure a generator if it has one will carry a load. Not just start up. We almost bought a 99 for $11K 3 years ago, but it had no slides so wife did not want! Everything was in great shape other than the slides.

Kinda hard to help with pricing when you dont indicate where you are at also. Here in SW units may be a little cheaper due to summer. Also beware of units located on sea shore or from NE due to possible salt corrosion on hardware. Found a nice unit at a dealer, had corroded bay locks and frame rust. Talked to dealer made alternate bid, never heard from him. Unit came from upper midwest!

Also, a good place to get more valid price info is from your bank or credit union. The NADA numbers we see online are different than what commercial people see. If a bank will only loan you 10k to buy a unit, then that is its value.

NADA only includes the standard , not optional equipment. If it is in very good condition with many options offer him less than he is asking then go from there Someone suggested new, well new depreciates when you drive it off the lot and someone else can deal with any issues that need fixed. Only 2 of our 7 trailers were new and 1 of our 4 MH's. If any of the rigs have Michelin 16' tires Jan 2010 thru June 2012 check the Michelin recall site, I just bought a 2012 C that has 2014 tires on it because they were probably in the recall as it only has 14,000 miles on the odometer.Good Luck

New Class C goes for 60K with room to negotiate. You are buying a 15 year old unit for 45 less. It is very difficult to evaluate the value of a used vehicle and potential costs of repair over the next two years. Get ready to shell out $5K over the next 2 years if you are not handy. Save money and buy a new unit.