Loose Hitch Receiver and Tow Bar

Tried to remove factory hitch from motorhome, but the fasteners to the frame are large rivets with threads. I would have to cut the rivets and reinstall with bolts and nuts. Not sure I want to do that, a lot of grinding. Could open a bag of worms. Has anyone taken the factory hitch off for welding or any other reason?

jdog wrote:

TyroneandGladys wrote:
Local welding shop has been fixing this problem for years by drilling two holes in the receiver one on the bottom and one on the side then welding a nut over the holes and placing a hex bolt in the nuts, tighten bolts no slop.

Good idea, but I think it would be better to put one on top instead of the bottom so that the inserted pc rides on the receiver bottom and not the bolt.

You are right I went out and looked at mine and it is on the top. Shows how often I use the hitch.

TyroneandGladys wrote:
Local welding shop has been fixing this problem for years by drilling two holes in the receiver one on the bottom and one on the side then welding a nut over the holes and placing a hex bolt in the nuts, tighten bolts no slop.

Good idea, but I think it would be better to put one on top instead of the bottom so that the inserted pc rides on the receiver bottom and not the bolt.

Another vote for Roadmaster's Quiet Hitch. Another thought, depending upon the length of your rear overhang (distance between the rear axles and the rear of the motorhome, you would probable find installing a Track Bar and a Sway Bar will solve your "tail wag" problem which cause steering problems.

Local welding shop has been fixing this problem for years by drilling two holes in the receiver one on the bottom and one on the side then welding a nut over the holes and placing a hex bolt in the nuts, tighten bolts no slop.

j-d wrote:


This is a product from RoadMaster called QuietHitch. BlueOx has something also. The BlueOx is interesting because it squeezes slack both top-to-bottom and side-to-side.
When I was looking for Track Bars, I ended up in a conversation with Eric Davis. Eric owns Eric's RV and you might know his name from the Davis Track Bar for the fronts of Class A RVs. He was really helpful and also addressed how slack in the tow rig can cause the toad to bump steer the back of the RV. He said that there should be less than 1/2" total "give" between RV receiver and toad tow bar. If you use a "drop adapter" like pictured, or a "drop ball mount" it'll call for a device like QuietHitch.
Eric's remark didn't surprise me because I'd used those rental-type towbars that pull tight with chains. The slightest looseness and that towed vehicle would go absolutely nuts.

This is the same set up that I have. It looks just like mine. You fully understand what I am talking about. I thought maybe I was wrong. But your response and that of others confirms what I was thinking. The dog wagging the tail is not just in the weak suspension, it also is in the tow bar connection. Thank you for your responsives!

The RoadMaster Quiet Hitch solved the problem of the toad wagging our MH.

Beverley and Ken

This is a product from RoadMaster called QuietHitch. BlueOx has something also. The BlueOx is interesting because it squeezes slack both top-to-bottom and side-to-side.
When I was looking for Track Bars, I ended up in a conversation with Eric Davis. Eric owns Eric's RV and you might know his name from the Davis Track Bar for the fronts of Class A RVs. He was really helpful and also addressed how slack in the tow rig can cause the toad to bump steer the back of the RV. He said that there should be less than 1/2" total "give" between RV receiver and toad tow bar. If you use a "drop adapter" like pictured, or a "drop ball mount" it'll call for a device like QuietHitch.
Eric's remark didn't surprise me because I'd used those rental-type towbars that pull tight with chains. The slightest looseness and that towed vehicle would go absolutely nuts.

A lot of manufactures make an anti rattle hitch bracket.