Forum Discussion
heyobie
Oct 10, 2017Explorer
Test Results
My problem was that the heater worked all summer when I was getting the RV road ready. Went camping and it did not want to light until I tried about 20 times. Brought it home and it worked pretty much every time until this week. Can’t get it to light. So I am following the posted recommendations.
So, been on this for a few hours. Here is what I did and what I found.
1. Tested resistance on ECO. Good
2. Tested resistance on the tstat. Good
3. I then pulled each wire that had a spade, filed, sprayed with electronic cleaner and added dielectric grease.
4. I remove the igniter to work on the ground. It was very rusty. I thought I had the problem. Filed,, sprayed and greased the connections. The ground was now good, but same results
5. Tried to measure OHMs on coil of the gas valve. I have a good analog tester. But I am not good at understanding the different knob settings on the meter. What worked best was to set it on X100. I then put one probe on the ECO spade that had 2 reds that went to the gas control. Other probe to ground At that reading I got about 2 OHMs . So if I read it correctly, this is a problem.
6. So I go to test and same results. A click on and a few seconds later, a click off. No spark.
7. I then try to follow the suggestion from Snowbird. I understand what is going on but I didn’t know where to connect the Positive cable on the water heater. So I say to myself, lets so part of what Snowbird suggested. So I bring a jumper cable from the negative battery post and connect it to a ground on the water heater. I try to fire it up and the same result. Only a click.
8. So I decide to remove the ground from the battery because I was not sure which battery was controlling the heater because none of my fuses say anything about a water heater. So I remove it and everything is dead, so I have the right battery.
9. When I removed the battery, the switch in the RV was in the on position. So when I connected the negative cable to the battery, all of a sudden, I hear the igniter firing. Holy **** Snowbird. But when I go inside, and reset the switch, I only get a click.
10. So I kept trying. Disconnect the ground and connect it back, it fires and sparks but no takeoff. I do it again with a BIC lighter and only a tiny puff of gas lit. The main gas is on because I lit the stove. I loosened the connection at the gas valve and gas was there.
11. I assume something is wrong with the gas valve. But I can not explain why the system fires the igniter when I connect the battery ground but does not fire when I hit the ON switch.
12. I also had my meter on the control vavle side of the ECO and was getting 12volts.
Any thoughts on what I should do?
I think I need a new Control Valve and a new switch
So should I take the control valve apart?
My problem was that the heater worked all summer when I was getting the RV road ready. Went camping and it did not want to light until I tried about 20 times. Brought it home and it worked pretty much every time until this week. Can’t get it to light. So I am following the posted recommendations.
So, been on this for a few hours. Here is what I did and what I found.
1. Tested resistance on ECO. Good
2. Tested resistance on the tstat. Good
3. I then pulled each wire that had a spade, filed, sprayed with electronic cleaner and added dielectric grease.
4. I remove the igniter to work on the ground. It was very rusty. I thought I had the problem. Filed,, sprayed and greased the connections. The ground was now good, but same results
5. Tried to measure OHMs on coil of the gas valve. I have a good analog tester. But I am not good at understanding the different knob settings on the meter. What worked best was to set it on X100. I then put one probe on the ECO spade that had 2 reds that went to the gas control. Other probe to ground At that reading I got about 2 OHMs . So if I read it correctly, this is a problem.
6. So I go to test and same results. A click on and a few seconds later, a click off. No spark.
7. I then try to follow the suggestion from Snowbird. I understand what is going on but I didn’t know where to connect the Positive cable on the water heater. So I say to myself, lets so part of what Snowbird suggested. So I bring a jumper cable from the negative battery post and connect it to a ground on the water heater. I try to fire it up and the same result. Only a click.
8. So I decide to remove the ground from the battery because I was not sure which battery was controlling the heater because none of my fuses say anything about a water heater. So I remove it and everything is dead, so I have the right battery.
9. When I removed the battery, the switch in the RV was in the on position. So when I connected the negative cable to the battery, all of a sudden, I hear the igniter firing. Holy **** Snowbird. But when I go inside, and reset the switch, I only get a click.
10. So I kept trying. Disconnect the ground and connect it back, it fires and sparks but no takeoff. I do it again with a BIC lighter and only a tiny puff of gas lit. The main gas is on because I lit the stove. I loosened the connection at the gas valve and gas was there.
11. I assume something is wrong with the gas valve. But I can not explain why the system fires the igniter when I connect the battery ground but does not fire when I hit the ON switch.
12. I also had my meter on the control vavle side of the ECO and was getting 12volts.
Any thoughts on what I should do?
I think I need a new Control Valve and a new switch
So should I take the control valve apart?
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