Need Sales Price Help / 89 Tioga: 24 ft: V10; 50k Miles

rjstractor wrote:
Since the V10 didn't appear until mid-1997, the 1989 model may have a 460 V8. (nothing wrong with that) Also, since the seller is either dishonest or clueless, I wouldn't trust anything they said.

Maybe the seller meant to say it is a 1999. If it is a 1999 in seemingly good condition without water marks on the walls or ceiling, I would estimate $10,000-$12,000. If it is truly a 1989, then surely less than $5000. If it needs a lot of help, it will be junk status.

Like the one poster mentioned adding $8000 afterwards can happen with a very old rig, especially if you are not handy enough to do most of the work yourself.

For a 24 foot 89 Tioga, I would think somewhere between $2,500 and $2,800, and no more. Unless it is in pristine condition, with no major issues...it could very well turn out to be a money pit, and not worth the money that you would need to invest in it. If this is the first one you have seen, don't buy it until you have comparison shopped.

I had an '89 Jamboree (same vehicle) with a 460 V8. I got about 5.5 mpg with it. That was the first year for EFI in the 460. I sold it to a friend when it was 10 yr. old and she traded it last year for a snowmobile. It was a constant leaker at all of the seams. I didn't find out about Eternabond until the next MH. Check for leaks and run if you find them.

Older aluminum sided rigs had a lot of seams that could loosen up and let rain water get to wood.Newer ones have better siding and joint design that is less leak prone. Don't use silicone sealers, use "real" RV sealers.

Many older rigs were much heavier but used less powerful carbureted engines. Newer rigs with Ford Triton V-10 engines, with electronic fuel injection, and higher capacity cooling systems, are much better pulling up long grades without overheating.

Many typical motorhome destinations involve mountain driving where good power, good cooling system, good brakes, and intelligent down-shifting and speed control are essential.

I got an '86 Tioga for $3000 and put another $8000 into it and now have a decent MH. Not sure what I would have got if I would have just spent the $11k up front, but I had fun fixing up the old girl.

Since the V10 didn't appear until mid-1997, the 1989 model may have a 460 V8. (nothing wrong with that) Also, since the seller is either dishonest or clueless, I wouldn't trust anything they said.

With any old rig, you have to identify your Purchase Price Max and your ability to make/pay for repairs.

For American Clippers (built between 1973 and 1980), which are all fiberglass and very well built, the price ranges as such:

Great condition (cosmetic and/or regular maintenance required) - $5,000 to $8,000.

Good condition (missed maintenance requiring repair/replacement, most appliances working) - $3,000 to $5,000.

Poor condition (major work needed) - under $3,000.


The above is just what you would expect to pay for the RV out the door. The lower the price, the more money/work needed to get the RV into running condition. For a good condition clipper, you could expect to put in between $500 to $5,000 in work to get it into proper running condition (this isn't cosmetic work, but functional work). This does NOT include new tires or batteries.

Tires and batteries are a given purchase. No matter what used RV you buy, you'll end up purchasing these within a year in almost all cases. In addition, for any RV, you will have to purchase these within 7 to 10 years regardless. It's just a standard expense.

With a budget of $2,000 to $5,000, you're looking at an RV that will need work. How much will you have available over the first year to put towards this work? This will determine how quickly you will be able to get your RV out on the road. You will need to prioritize what will need to be done to the RV - Safety issues (can kill you if not done - done immediately); Functional issues (being able to depend on the RV to get you there, etc. - done after safety issues); Cosmetic issues (updating, etc. - low priority).

The more safety issues that need to be done, the less money/time to get the functional issues dealt with - which means you'll be sitting around and not out on the road. The fewer safety issues, the more money/time to get the functional issues dealt with - getting you on the road sooner.

All that is to forewarn you that with older rigs, you can't base your decision on a single "purchase price budget". If you do, you will end up with a big pile of stuff in your driveway and you won't be able to enjoy it.

Instead, figure out your "Ongoing Budget". To do this, identify how much you can afford to pay for a rig, PLUS buy tires and batteries, AND how much you can reasonably put into the rig for repairs/rebuilds/etc. over that first year to get it in running order.

Then you can start looking for a rig that is most likely to meet that budget. If you can do a lot of the engine work, etc. yourself, then you have more wiggle room.

Hi,

Welcome to the forums.

Baseball.

It is too old. Run away.

The early v-10's had a spark plug blow out of the block problem. I repeat, it is too old, run away.

Plastic parts tend to depalmerize over time and may become brittle. There are rarely exact replacements available. For a third time, it is too old, run away.

Three strikes and it is "out".

do what bordercollie says, remember this is a money pit, V 10, I don,t think so. ask if the motors been changed out?

Hi. The 1989 with V10 is info. provided by seller. No other info. JR