New Full Time RV'er, Need Some Advice
Hi everyone, My partner and I are taking off in a 1984 Ford Tioga. We are both new to RV's and have fairly little mechanical background. We are excited to get started and feel like we have a good r...
Forum Discussion
Tough call on the book, though the tech on MHs has not changed a lot, the '98 just might apply a bit better. The author's name rings a bell.
The last 4 digits of the DOT number on tires of the last decade or more tell month and year of origin, IIRC. Look at cracking on the sidewalls, esp. where it starts to become the tread. If over 6-8 y/o and cracks, you may need $1250 for 6 new ones. But if the vehicle was kept from sun and rain (Awning cover), maybe have a few years still. The infrequent rolling causes RV tire rubber-oils to gel up vs flow thru all the pores.
5+ y/o batteries might be wearing out. A $25 pocket multimeter can give you readings. A steady 12.5-12.6 over several days parked is a good thing. Keep 'em full of distilled water and be sure to disconnect the house (coach) batt when it is not in use - likely you have a house batt disconnect switch. Some folks install a simple disconnect switch on the engine (chassis) batt also to disconnect when idle for a few weeks. There seem to be things in RVs that place parasitic current drains on one or both batts.
Do not run generator when plugged into shore AC power. Exercise generator (genset) by running 30 min a month and under a load (heat up water, turn on lights, or run air conditioned)>
Learn how the house battery can start the generator and an emergency start toggle switch at the drivers area can be pressed and this will start a dead engine batt.
Chech tire inflation, maybe buy a small $50 air compressor and air guage to monitor and fill every few months or so.
Watch for roof leaks and monitor/redo caulk (use Dicor special non petrol on rubbery sheet roofs)
Others can chime in. How well it was stored and exercised by owners will dictate current condition.
It all comes fairly naturally.
The last 4 digits of the DOT number on tires of the last decade or more tell month and year of origin, IIRC. Look at cracking on the sidewalls, esp. where it starts to become the tread. If over 6-8 y/o and cracks, you may need $1250 for 6 new ones. But if the vehicle was kept from sun and rain (Awning cover), maybe have a few years still. The infrequent rolling causes RV tire rubber-oils to gel up vs flow thru all the pores.
5+ y/o batteries might be wearing out. A $25 pocket multimeter can give you readings. A steady 12.5-12.6 over several days parked is a good thing. Keep 'em full of distilled water and be sure to disconnect the house (coach) batt when it is not in use - likely you have a house batt disconnect switch. Some folks install a simple disconnect switch on the engine (chassis) batt also to disconnect when idle for a few weeks. There seem to be things in RVs that place parasitic current drains on one or both batts.
Do not run generator when plugged into shore AC power. Exercise generator (genset) by running 30 min a month and under a load (heat up water, turn on lights, or run air conditioned)>
Learn how the house battery can start the generator and an emergency start toggle switch at the drivers area can be pressed and this will start a dead engine batt.
Chech tire inflation, maybe buy a small $50 air compressor and air guage to monitor and fill every few months or so.
Watch for roof leaks and monitor/redo caulk (use Dicor special non petrol on rubbery sheet roofs)
Others can chime in. How well it was stored and exercised by owners will dictate current condition.
It all comes fairly naturally.
