New RV owner, trying to figure out issue with 94 Bounder

I have a 96 p-30 chassis G jac is on the right path check ride hight on level surface. I am by no means an expert on the p-30. Have installed air bags twice on mine . Check for leaks using soapy water. Check air lines to the bags as well. Found an airline with a hole rubbed in it from frame contact. Do not over inflate bags can rupture.90 Lbs max pressure, I run 75 psi in mine. Someone on here suggested using wire pulling lubricant to grease bags to get into hole on the frame . Having done this twice I think this is a good Idea. The hand vacuum pump works well to shrink bags I taped the connections with electrical tape to help seal and hold vacuum pump hose onto air bag. I also bought some circle hose clamps to put on bag and tighten the bag to shrink it to get through the hole. As you tighten the clamp push the bag through the hole till the clamp bottoms out against the frame. Loosen clamp move it down on bag about an inch tighten clamp again push bag into hole clamp bottoms out again, repeat.You will have to use a twisting motion to get bag into hole. When you finish bag will be twisted inside spring. Don't panic, when a slight air pressure is added, bag will straighten out inside spring. Don't air up till you put rubber pucks on top and on bottom of spring. Put the top puck in as said by instructions . I had a hard time trying to get bottom puck in through the spring too crowded from suspension parts and not enough gap in spring. I took a large pair of channel locks and bent the puck in half and pushed it in place through the hole the airbag went through. These pucks are extremely tough and resilient Just make sure you line up valve stem through the hole in puck and bottom frame member before adding any air to the bag. I also used some large wooden blocks under the levelers to lift the front end up to expand the springs. My front wheels were several inches off the ground. so have a heavy duty jack stand available to place under rig for safety . When you route air lines put shrink wrap any place that come in contact with frame to prevent chaffing. Oh yea, I used a sharp razor knife to cut old bags to pieces to get them out and large heavy screwdrivers as pry bars to move thing around, be easy on the new bags . One other thing make sure the airbags you order have the shrader air valve on them. Some come with snap together fittings I have used both and prefer the shrader valve. Good luck!

Do you have air bags in the front and back? I would drive to a know level area and check your ride height with the bags delated(which you state they don't hold air) and measure the ride height both front and back left and right and post your measurements. If your rubber stop is already resting on the upper A arm with no ride height I would go with HD replacement springs in stead of the new bags.

So I got home and checked both front backs with my air compressor with the air chuck/gauge, and both just blow air right thru it, so I guess I will be replacing both. As far as the springs, they look good, no rust or cracks that I can see.

wsterling wrote:
I meant shocks, not springs, dang phone... errrrr... so how can I tell if the bag needs to be replaced, just fill it until its full and if it's leaking air then it needs to needs to be replaced? As for the tires, they were replaced in 2012, so they only have about 6K on them. Thanks so far for all the advice everyone!

Mileage MEANS NOTHING> IN FACT old tires with low miles are worse than newer with high mileage.
If the tires have been uncovered baking in the Arizona sun the may be nearing end of life. It has to do with the compounds that preserve them being leached out by sunlight. Daily driving redistributes the compounds sitting lets them leach. That being said I would replace the 2 fronts and see what the spare was like then use one of the fronts as a spare. Nothing worse than a blowout of a front tire at 65-70 MPH

I just sold my '94 Bounder after 12 years on the road. Also a diesel pusher with an Oshkosh/Freightliner chassis but as mentioned, the house equipment is pretty much the same.

Here's a direct link to the '94 Bounder RV Repair section of my blog. Lots of repair info after 12 years on the road. Even did a paint job in Mexico...

RV Repair Info '94 Bounder

Although our 94 Bounder was on the F53 chassis the only mods that were done suspension wise was Firestone air bags in the rear and a Davis Tru-Trac on the front. Handled great for us. Don't know the length of yours but we had the 32H model. It had 116K miles when we traded it in and the couple that has it now has 164K on it.

Watch how much air you put in. Put in about 75-90 pounds, then use a soapy water solution on bag to locate the leak or rupture.
Mine had rock holes in side of bags.
Some leak around the valve stem same as a tire.

I meant shocks, not springs, dang phone... errrrr... so how can I tell if the bag needs to be replaced, just fill it until its full and if it's leaking air then it needs to needs to be replaced? As for the tires, they were replaced in 2012, so they only have about 6K on them. Thanks so far for all the advice everyone!

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on the Bounder.
Did you check the tire age?
You may or may not know, RV tires usually age out before they wear out.
Enjoy your travels.

Hi Will, I have a 94 Bounder but is a diesel pusher. My Oshkosh chassis is different but the rest of the rig should be similar. Any other questions or help about it post it or send me a message. Doug