Forum Discussion

45Ricochet's avatar
45Ricochet
Explorer
Jun 24, 2015

New to MH forum

Hello Class A Forum,

Well the time has finally come ( old age ) :W and we are going to sell the fiver and switch up to a Class A DP. The fivers were good to us and I kind of felt I knew most all the questions that came up pertaining to a TV, hitches and trailers.

Entire new world when looking at toads, bars, brake controllers and electric connections for me. I looked at THIS web site and found it very informative but I still want to hear from experienced group on this site.
Just doing my homework before purchase. I plan on a 242” wheelbase MH with a 28K GVWR and a GCWR of 33K. It has a 10K hitch and for a toad I’m looking at a Ram 1500 which has about 5K of unladen weight . Selling my old Ram Dually is somewhat difficult as it was the best TV I’ve ever owned, but I digress.I don’t need it any longer and it will make someone happy :B
Now maybe some advice as to the bars, brakes and electric. I was thinking of the Blue Ox all the way around. Pretty sure I’ll have to have a installer as it looks like French to me with the base plates alone. I don’t want to tap into the Ram electronics for lights per TIPM problems. Another question is the EB on these MH. I've been running one for 10 years now and still have OEM brakes at about 23K lbs. Do your EB work that good also?

OBTW how is a 242” wheelbase turning into a sharp turn into a mountain driveway? I believe the MH is a 50 cut. I get the current 5er and Ram at 53’ total in fine, tight but fine.
Any advice I would appreciate
Thanks Rick
Class A

6 Replies

  • PastorCharlie's avatar
    PastorCharlie
    Explorer
    Jun 24, 2015
    JimM68 wrote:
    Both roadmaster and blue ox make good stuff.

    One thing to look for, our jeep liberty had a blank undrilled socket in the tail light housings. I was able to drill it out, file the tabs, and install a completely separate set of lights!
    Very easy to do, and no connection to the Liberties electrical system.



    A friend's new Chevrolet Sonic was engineered that way and water infiltrated the light fixture and ruined the reflective base and the factory warranty defaulted and would not replace the light.
  • JimM68's avatar
    JimM68
    Explorer
    Jun 24, 2015
    Both roadmaster and blue ox make good stuff.

    One thing to look for, our jeep liberty had a blank undrilled socket in the tail light housings. I was able to drill it out, file the tabs, and install a completely separate set of lights!
    Very easy to do, and no connection to the Liberties electrical system.
  • 45Ricochet's avatar
    45Ricochet
    Explorer
    Jun 24, 2015
    Ivylog wrote:
    Sounds like you've narrowed it down to a certain DP... might share that info with us for better answers.


    36.1 Model #
  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    Jun 24, 2015
    Sounds like you've narrowed it down to a certain DP... might share that info with us for better answers. Yes the EB are that good and a true two stage Jake brake is even better.

    One trick on tight turns (without the toad on the back) is to do it in two parts. You wait too late to make it... over shooting the turn and then back up (steering the opposite direction and not hitting anything on the opposite side of the road) and then finish making the turn.
    I've even had to do it in three parts for a turn that was more than 90 degrees with an obstruction on the inside of the turn.

    I made my own braking system similar to the Air Force One for less than $50.. The MG Brake system is similar in that a air cyclinder goes between the master cylinder and the brake pedal.
  • burgess001's avatar
    burgess001
    Explorer
    Jun 24, 2015
    I have been totally pleased with a Brake Buddy for a lot of years now. Mine is over 10 years old and has been used a LOT.

    Motorhome Magazine has issues that address tow-ability of various vehicles. Its a pretty pricey proposition to get rigged to tow. Some prefer a dolly. I have Roadmaster and don't know if either option is better or worse. I would go with the best price personally.

    I know twisting and turning on inclines where there is a sharp transition can be problematic. I used to drag my hitch receiver all the time. Finally figured out how to do it. One thing that has bothered me is the way the coach has to flex when entering a sharp transition at an angle. It puts some pretty major stress that i don't think they are designed for. I'm always afraid my windshield is going to pop out when I go through that exercise.

    Good luck with your change. I'm looking at moving from our 38 ft Dutch Star to a Class B+ or maybe a C. Hope I can handle the cramped quarters.
  • ncrowley's avatar
    ncrowley
    Explorer II
    Jun 24, 2015
    I cannot answer all of your questions but I will try some of them.

    I have all Blue Ox equipment and I have been very pleased with everything. I have the tow bar and the car shield and the base plate for 2 vehicles. When I had the Jeep wired, they ran a separate set of wires for the lights so they did not have to tap into the existing wiring.

    You may want to make sure that your driveway does not have very steep angles. You want to check to see if you will scrape something. My biggest issue is with the levelers. I have to fill in the area where the side walk slants to the road to get the coach out of the garage.

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