No Running Lights - 2003 Winnebago 24V

If you don't find it as fuses, bad grounds, or chewed up wires, consider polarity on the LEDs, particularly if the incandescent lamps worked.

fourthclassC wrote:
Again I want to thank all for your input. The truth of the matter is that I was doing some work.... Adding a 7 trailer connector to replace the existing 6 pin with the objective of adding a Prodigy electronic brake controller. So I got the controller wired in at the dash, got the brake lights and running lights working at the trailer and could not figure out the new brake controller part (controller keeps showing "no tralier connected" even when it is. Planning to run new brake wires (brake switch and power) not sure exactly when I lost camper running lights but I'm guessing it was related to my work on the 6 to 7 pin / prodigy install.

Thinking right here was the answer !
Doing the wiring most likely touched something hot/power , left key on for power source or ?

I have seen so many that didn't even think once about it (me included the first 3 times lol) backed up to hook up a trailer ,toad etc left the TV running ,lights on and went to plug in and didn't plug/hit the exact connection and zap blew a fuse.. ;)

The insulation on our wiring is partially a wheat product and mice can sense it.

When working on electrical gremlins, it's useful to:

1. Include Ground in the Suspect Pool

2. Review the most recent work done

3. Non-OEM modifications are good suspects. They aren't done to the same standards as OEM. And the whole RV is pretty much a modification. Part of why I like Class C's over Class A's. There are a few less aftermarket adds and mods. I think I'd like a TT even better. It's a little house plus a simple trailer, not a house plus a complex chassis.

fourthclassC wrote:
Update 10-14
Huge thanks to all who replied. I actually found a blown maxi fuse (20a) from a post that said it may be a fuse labeled in the ford manual as trailer parking lights. Not sure why it was labeled that because I thought Winnebago wired in the running lights. Any way I will replace the fuse and hope it dosen't blow again.. If it does more troubleshooting will be needed.

I was a diesel mechanic for many years and I would suggest that if the fuse blows again you might pull each of the clearance lights and look at the connections to the pigtails. The lights usually have a short piece of wire to connect them to the circuit and it's common for a wire nut to fall off and allow the connection to short. I usually put a wrap of electrical tape around the nut to keep it from vibrating off.

Again I want to thank all for your input. The truth of the matter is that I was doing some work.... Adding a 7 trailer connector to replace the existing 6 pin with the objective of adding a Prodigy electronic brake controller. So I got the controller wired in at the dash, got the brake lights and running lights working at the trailer and could not figure out the new brake controller part (controller keeps showing "no tralier connected" even when it is. Planning to run new brake wires (brake switch and power) not sure exactly when I lost camper running lights but I'm guessing it was related to my work on the 6 to 7 pin / prodigy install.

I'm glad you found the blown fuse! But I'll add this in case someone else has a problem: mice or ground squirrels. I'm not sure why, but they WILL gnaw on wiring insulation. Our 5er lost the running lights at the rear, and it was due to wiring shorting out in a few bare spots that had been nibbled.

OP - Looks like Winnebago used Ford's OEM trailer wiring harness. Good to know if you actually tow a trailer or a toad.

Ya know, I'll bet Jayco did the same thing. I haven't checked, but that would explain why I couldn't use incandescent towing lights on our toad. I was trying to light two "trailers" (the car AND the back end of the RV) from one "trailer" circuit. And I"ll bet it was extended, by Jayco, from Ford, with minimum gauge wire. Replaced lights on the back of the RV with LED, and went to LED on the toad as well. They're all bright now.

2003 324V 12V Diagram Here

If I picked the right model... Goes on and on, and there are differences between those on Ford and those on Chevy.

I must've been lucky, Dazuki, with the few Winnie models I've looked up. I found one for 120VAC on Mike LeBlanc's Winnie, 12VDC on this one, and a Sprinter-based with TV wiring issues. I forget the year and model of the Sprinter, probably one of the earlier ones. But you're right, I tried the 2010 324V and Winnie doesn't show a 12VDC wiring diagram. Oh, well...

fourthclassC wrote:
Update 10-14
Huge thanks to all who replied. I actually found a blown maxi fuse (20a) from a post that said it may be a fuse labeled in the ford manual as trailer parking lights. Not sure why it was labeled that because I thought Winnebago wired in the running lights. Any way I will replace the fuse and hope it dosen't blow again.. If it does more troubleshooting will be needed.

Of course, for a trailer (and the clearance lights for a truck/motorhome) the same lights are both parking lights and running lights. I guess you could say they're parking lights when you're parked and running lights when you're driving.

j-d wrote:
By "running" I take it you mean the five red across the top rear, the five amber across the
Winnebago is a good coach from an even better company. You can look up your exact year and model to find out how the running lights are wired.

Not so much. During the downturn they quit publishing complete wiring diagrams for many RVs. There are no published 12V diagrams for mine.