Opinion on winterability of my rig
I have a Class C Coachmen Freelander 2006. The freshwater tank is actually in the platform of the bed (so in the heated area). What is exposed under my coach is: -Black Tank -Grey Tank -Thick...
Forum Discussion
I'm a long way from knowing from experience how to get by in a Class C in freezing weather, but by putting on my thinking cap, here's some comments:
- Our tank heaters are powered by 12 volts and I think most of them are. If so, you shouldn't need an inverter to run them, as your Class C's stock converter (or batteries alone) will power the tank heaters.
- The tank heaters keep liquid in the tanks above freezing. This liquid also helps keep any liquid in the PVC pipes between the tank and the dump valves in liquid form during freezing weather. However, for long PVC runs between the tanks and dump valves, 12 volt pipe-wrap heaters should be used along with the pads on the tanks themselves.
- Is your propane furnace a ducted one? If so, look at how and where it's heating ducting is routed in behind walls and cabinets. For instance, our furnace ducting is routed in behind structures right next to internal fresh water PEX tubing ... thus warming those inner areas whenever the propane furnace is running.
- During cold weather is no time to scrimp on use of the propane furnace because you think it's somehow best to "conserve" by having a coldish coach inside - or no matter how much you "like it generally not too warm" when living in the motorhome. Keep that propane furnace on and set to 65 degrees or higher ... no matter what. It's your cold weather friend and insurance at keeping everything operating without freezing (including the refrigerator). It'll cost to keep it fueled for cycling constantly during freezing temperatures, but fixing broken plumbing costs way more in inconvenience and money. Sleep with your head next to a cracked window if you must, but keep that furnace going. Having full sink and toilet facilities still operating during freezing weather helps keep the misery level bearable.
- For cold weather drycamping, with a good built-in generator or a portable one along and plenty of fuel for it, you can keep up with both real-time 12 volt energy needs (while the generator is running) ... right along with simultaneous battery charging (while the generator is running) so during the long nights when the generator is off the batteries can both run the tank heaters and propane furnace. Of course, you can't keep up these procedures with only one battery - two large ones are minimum or still unadequate, with three or more large ones being ideal. It seems like cold weather drycamping could be done for at least a few days here and there with adequate battery and generator capability along. Also, in my opinion cold weather drycamping - even for just a few days here and there - is no time to trust solar panels for electrical energy replenishment.
- Since this is a Class C forum -> chassis engine idling can also be used for a periodic tremendous coach heating boost. Main engine idling can also be used to assist with battery charging to help keep ahead of heating pad energy replenishment needs. Remember that the heating pads are not "on" all the time - they cycle (due to the heat retention mass of water) on and off - so their energy usage is less than what you calculate by simpling multiplying amps times hours of use during freezing temperatures. It goes without saying that whenever Class C drycamping here and there during cold weather, one should always begin with a full-as-possible 55 gallon (later model Ford) or 57 gallon (later model Chevy) main fuel tank - just in case.
- Our tank heaters are powered by 12 volts and I think most of them are. If so, you shouldn't need an inverter to run them, as your Class C's stock converter (or batteries alone) will power the tank heaters.
- The tank heaters keep liquid in the tanks above freezing. This liquid also helps keep any liquid in the PVC pipes between the tank and the dump valves in liquid form during freezing weather. However, for long PVC runs between the tanks and dump valves, 12 volt pipe-wrap heaters should be used along with the pads on the tanks themselves.
- Is your propane furnace a ducted one? If so, look at how and where it's heating ducting is routed in behind walls and cabinets. For instance, our furnace ducting is routed in behind structures right next to internal fresh water PEX tubing ... thus warming those inner areas whenever the propane furnace is running.
- During cold weather is no time to scrimp on use of the propane furnace because you think it's somehow best to "conserve" by having a coldish coach inside - or no matter how much you "like it generally not too warm" when living in the motorhome. Keep that propane furnace on and set to 65 degrees or higher ... no matter what. It's your cold weather friend and insurance at keeping everything operating without freezing (including the refrigerator). It'll cost to keep it fueled for cycling constantly during freezing temperatures, but fixing broken plumbing costs way more in inconvenience and money. Sleep with your head next to a cracked window if you must, but keep that furnace going. Having full sink and toilet facilities still operating during freezing weather helps keep the misery level bearable.
- For cold weather drycamping, with a good built-in generator or a portable one along and plenty of fuel for it, you can keep up with both real-time 12 volt energy needs (while the generator is running) ... right along with simultaneous battery charging (while the generator is running) so during the long nights when the generator is off the batteries can both run the tank heaters and propane furnace. Of course, you can't keep up these procedures with only one battery - two large ones are minimum or still unadequate, with three or more large ones being ideal. It seems like cold weather drycamping could be done for at least a few days here and there with adequate battery and generator capability along. Also, in my opinion cold weather drycamping - even for just a few days here and there - is no time to trust solar panels for electrical energy replenishment.
- Since this is a Class C forum -> chassis engine idling can also be used for a periodic tremendous coach heating boost. Main engine idling can also be used to assist with battery charging to help keep ahead of heating pad energy replenishment needs. Remember that the heating pads are not "on" all the time - they cycle (due to the heat retention mass of water) on and off - so their energy usage is less than what you calculate by simpling multiplying amps times hours of use during freezing temperatures. It goes without saying that whenever Class C drycamping here and there during cold weather, one should always begin with a full-as-possible 55 gallon (later model Ford) or 57 gallon (later model Chevy) main fuel tank - just in case.
