Opinion on winterability of my rig
I have a Class C Coachmen Freelander 2006. The freshwater tank is actually in the platform of the bed (so in the heated area). What is exposed under my coach is: -Black Tank -Grey Tank -Thick...
Forum Discussion
Hi Phil,
I started out on a quest to prevent freeze up of the fresh water plumbing while driving. The dash heat would cause the thermostat on the propane furnace to be "fooled" into not calling for heat. Running the water heater did not help.
I started with a 1500 watt heater on the floor under the kitchenette sink. That did not help. I added a light bulb beside the water pump--that did keep the pump safe but I still had water line freeze ups. I added a 50 watt rod heater beside the pipes. No improvement.
What did work was dual window fans replacing the cold air return on the furnace. All they did was move warm living space air under the cabinets and through the duct work. I have them controlled by a mechanical thermostat which "lives" in the coldest part of the under cabinet space.
The waste tanks were supposed to be heated. Unfortunately the duct work to them is missing. The easy solution was to add a 120 volt outlet and a thermostatically controlled heater. I can safely say that 200 watts is not quite enough.
The carpets are a comfort measure to get rid of cold floors. I was able to heat 100% electrically without them in the mix.
Good luck with "looking my Rv up". Unfortunately it became an orphan in 2012.
I started out on a quest to prevent freeze up of the fresh water plumbing while driving. The dash heat would cause the thermostat on the propane furnace to be "fooled" into not calling for heat. Running the water heater did not help.
I started with a 1500 watt heater on the floor under the kitchenette sink. That did not help. I added a light bulb beside the water pump--that did keep the pump safe but I still had water line freeze ups. I added a 50 watt rod heater beside the pipes. No improvement.
What did work was dual window fans replacing the cold air return on the furnace. All they did was move warm living space air under the cabinets and through the duct work. I have them controlled by a mechanical thermostat which "lives" in the coldest part of the under cabinet space.
The waste tanks were supposed to be heated. Unfortunately the duct work to them is missing. The easy solution was to add a 120 volt outlet and a thermostatically controlled heater. I can safely say that 200 watts is not quite enough.
The carpets are a comfort measure to get rid of cold floors. I was able to heat 100% electrically without them in the mix.
Good luck with "looking my Rv up". Unfortunately it became an orphan in 2012.
