Pitfalls of buying an older C???
I am seriously considering (at some point in the next couple of years) looking for an inexpensive but low mileage small class C. I would be using this to travel on some extended trips either by mysel...
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Here are the standards that I checked for when I bought my 1975 American Clipper last year:
Soft spots, dry rot, mold/mildew, etc. for potential leaks. Ran water through entire system and watch for leaking. Light pilot lights on stove, hot water heater, furnace, and fridge to make sure they light and stay lit. Test water pump and lights on battery power only. Test water pump, fridge, a/c, lights on shore power. These you can test yourself. If the seller won't let you plug in, run water, etc. walk away - no reason is acceptable not to test those things except acknowledgement of a major problem (e.g., the hot water tank is split open, etc.).
Have a professional test these: propane regulator and lines for proper functionality and leaks. All rubber (fuel lines, belts, etc.) for wear and tear, leaks, etc. Brakes (including emergency brakes), dump valves (older RVs had rubber gaskets in the valves - those gaskets go bad and leak or come loose), etc.
Expect to replace tires. Expect to spend up to $10,000 (including purchase price) to get the RV in full working order. Expect to wait until everything is fixed before enjoying the RV, or expect to have things go wrong out on the road. As my mechanic told me last week when I brought in my RV for repairs "wouldn't you like just ONE trip that goes without a hitch".
All that said, I love my old RV. Even with the repairs, the on-the-road problems, etc., I smile every time I get in it. I wouldn't trade it for a new one for anything. It's exactly what I wanted. Over the past year, I have put in about $3000 (not including tires) getting things working right. Only a couple things left that are known issues. Then maybe I can start doing some of the stuff on my want list (versus my must do list).
Soft spots, dry rot, mold/mildew, etc. for potential leaks. Ran water through entire system and watch for leaking. Light pilot lights on stove, hot water heater, furnace, and fridge to make sure they light and stay lit. Test water pump and lights on battery power only. Test water pump, fridge, a/c, lights on shore power. These you can test yourself. If the seller won't let you plug in, run water, etc. walk away - no reason is acceptable not to test those things except acknowledgement of a major problem (e.g., the hot water tank is split open, etc.).
Have a professional test these: propane regulator and lines for proper functionality and leaks. All rubber (fuel lines, belts, etc.) for wear and tear, leaks, etc. Brakes (including emergency brakes), dump valves (older RVs had rubber gaskets in the valves - those gaskets go bad and leak or come loose), etc.
Expect to replace tires. Expect to spend up to $10,000 (including purchase price) to get the RV in full working order. Expect to wait until everything is fixed before enjoying the RV, or expect to have things go wrong out on the road. As my mechanic told me last week when I brought in my RV for repairs "wouldn't you like just ONE trip that goes without a hitch".
All that said, I love my old RV. Even with the repairs, the on-the-road problems, etc., I smile every time I get in it. I wouldn't trade it for a new one for anything. It's exactly what I wanted. Over the past year, I have put in about $3000 (not including tires) getting things working right. Only a couple things left that are known issues. Then maybe I can start doing some of the stuff on my want list (versus my must do list).
