PLS opinion on this asap

Here in Seattle, that right would go for much more.... Not quite double, but close.

Could be a great deal. But, as others have suggested, inspect carefully.

Plan to spend money on deferred maintenance --- brakes, shocks, tires, fluids, filters, caulking, waxing, etc.

We bought a 99 Class C 2 years ago, excellent plus condition, 19,000 miles a new everything works as it should. Generator had 100 hour, V10 engine, and it's been lots of fun! Ours is 23' and it works for us. We put on new tires, flushed brakes, radiator, transmission, engine, and a new recoated roof for prevention. We paid $15,000 and spent another$2500 for things mentioned.

Good luck, but get it inspected before handing over the money. If clean, grab it and enjoy the savings compared to new or newer.

I wouldn't even consider it till I at least spoke with the seller. They couldn't even be bothered to list the model? The length? Something smells, AFAIC.

Take a quick look at NADA values

Renting is a great way to try out RVing. It also has the added advantage of giving you some better ideas of what features you might appreciate (or what to avoid) when you're looking for an RV to buy. The only drawback is that rentals can get rather spendy rather quickly, particularly if your thinking in the range of a $10K to $15K budget for an RV....

Yea I can do all the work myself......but im still thinking of just renting a few times before making the plunge then maybe IF we like it buy one a year or two old

ksg5000 wrote:
Common to have brake issues with rigs that don't get used - water gets into brake fluid and calipers rust out ...

Start with the brakes. Everything new. Sounds expensive and it will be if you can not do most of the work yourself.

Rotor and drums just need a light pass on a brake lathe, but you will need new pads, calipers, hoses, BRAKE LINES, shoes, wheel cylinders. It will cost less than $300 online. Any shop would charge you more than $500 for the parts.

Second would be belts, hoses and coolant. DIY online parts less than $l00. Shop parts price more than$200.

After that, see how it runs. The other items listed WILL have to get done eventually, but I would not worry about them right away.

pianotuna wrote:
any sign of water infiltration = run away as fast as you can.

That is the only thing that would scare me !

Aboiut a dozen years ago, a neighbor bought a small Class C that was about 20 years old at the time. He knew it leaked because the interior was rotten. He replaced the entire interior and resealed the roof. He chase water leaks for months and finally sold it ! He got his money back but not his time and labor

The picture showing the cab over indicates some possible very serious issues:
1. As already mentioned, the window seal has failed.
2. At the right of the window, it appears that water has run down the wall from that corner.
3. At the right corner, from the top of the middle partition to the bottom, the back wall appears to be a different color indicating possible water intrusion.
4. At the right corner in the very top, the wallpaper appears wrinkled, indicating possible water intrusion.

I'd be VERY surprised if this coach has other than a "rubber" roof. That's what ours has, and I don't think Jayco got very far into f'glass roofs till the last 5-10 years. And then on not all that many models.

On our Jayco of that vintage, the roof starts out flat at the front. Probably because of the way the cabover is formed. The material can be rolled in one direction but not a second direction to form the crown. This is why the little mini-cap I call a "tiara" on some Winnebago's is so important. It allows the roof crown to form at a front cabover whose top surface would otherwise be flat.

Anyway, our roof has a slight crown that develops aft of the cabover and increases toward the back wall of the coach.