The end with the contorted steel tubing goes (lower left in the pic) goes into the steering box.
If it's leaking at that connection. It needs to be pretty tight, using a Tubing Wrench.
If you're tightening with an Open End Wrench and stopping because it's starting to round the flare nut off, you may not be tightening it enough. I'm sure there's a torque spec.
Not tight enough is a possibility, but before you wail on it, can you inspect 1. The Seat in the Steering Box, 2. Both sides of the Flare, and 3. The Flare side of the Nut?
Pipe Dope, Teflon Tape, and so on, won't seal a leak at that connection. I's a purely mechanical, metal-to-metal joint.
If you decide to buy Flare Nut Wrenches, aka Tubing Wrenches (six point box wrenches with a cutout to get over the tubing) your flare nut could be English or Metric. I still use my English set from the 1970's but I had to add a 10x12mm for wheel cylinders awhile ago, and a 16x18mm for a power steering project too, and that vehicle was 1984.
Be sure you have or get the exact wrench for those flare fittings! The O-Ring ones don't need to be anywhere nearly as tight.
