Forum Discussion
pianotuna
Apr 17, 2016Nomad III
Hi Harvey,
There is no need to run an additional wire. My trik-l-start resides beside one of the (LARGE) isolation relays and simply connects the house battery side to the engine side.
I also added manual control to the solenoid(s) (I have two circuits for charging), so I can "shut it down" to avoid overloading the alternator. Duty cycle is 1:3 so on my 130 amp I don't want to go much above 42 amps for very long. My solenoids are rated for 100 amps continuous -- the OEM Ford unit lasted less than one year. I replaced the 60 amp fuse with a 50 amp automatic circuit breaker.
There is no need to run an additional wire. My trik-l-start resides beside one of the (LARGE) isolation relays and simply connects the house battery side to the engine side.
I also added manual control to the solenoid(s) (I have two circuits for charging), so I can "shut it down" to avoid overloading the alternator. Duty cycle is 1:3 so on my 130 amp I don't want to go much above 42 amps for very long. My solenoids are rated for 100 amps continuous -- the OEM Ford unit lasted less than one year. I replaced the 60 amp fuse with a 50 amp automatic circuit breaker.
Harvey51 wrote:
Thanks, Treeseeker. I was thinking of an ordinary maintainer but see Trik-L-Start is special. I appreciate the advantage of Trik-L-Start over my piece of wire in preventing discharge of the engine battery into the house and independently regulating its charging.
The idea of running a new wire from house to engine is not welcome at this time, though.
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