recommendations for class C for overnights at ski resort

Continued cold weather in the teens? Difficult without constant monitoring. Easier if park potties are available.

You aren’t required to extend slides on some RVs to use all the amenities, so put those back on your list.

Imo, i think a truck camper would be your better option.

Winnebago has a new 4x4 Ford transit that you could look into.

I now have a class c 24’ with two QB’s.

I have no idea how cold you could really use it with water, i have been down to 20F with it.
My Ford E450 2018 has a limited slip rear , no 4x4. Would need a Quigley conversion.

Sunseeker 2350
All the water lines are within the heated cabin .
It has heated pads on the holding tanks.
It has a heat duct directly on the water pump.

The freshwater tank is under the corner QB.
The shower head , lines and valve are located on a heated interior wall.
The heat gets under both sink cabinets.

I have tested all those mentioned areas using a thermometer.

Years ago I had a C that we used skiing all over the NE and even at Mt Hood OR. Don’t remember the brand but no 4X4 and it never had a water line freeze. One year we went 43 times. Good old days

The situation and configuration in our 2005 24' Class C is about identical to what bobndot described their earlier post above.

We don't have a 4X4 setup on our Class C, and it doesn't even have limited slip internals in it's rear, and only, differential. However, note that a Class C has terrific traction in it's rear drive wheels due to all the weight that they're carryinig back there ... i.e. way more traction than that of my open differential 2WD Mustang that - years ago - I used to take on the slippery roads and into the ski slope parking lots in Utah ... very carefully.

You can have basically any Ford E series converted to 4wd. Not cheap but likely not more than buying one. Guessing $20k for a conversion?
Super Cs can be had in 4wd. Again, even the decent used ones are $100k or more.
Normal rwd dually C with the right tires all around. Think studded snows or siped, studded mudders will be quite capable. Although the last part of the run up to Crystal can be a bobsled run coming down.
Easiest and most versatile solution if 4wd is a must is pickup truck and a TC.

Add Tigers and any of the other small time overland type rigs, but none are cheap unless old and clapped out.

Agree with the others - 4x4 tough to find and probably not necessary. My Class C doesn't pretty good in snow - but I carry chains just in case.

Thank you all for the replies. Quigley can add 4x4 after the fact, so I'll narrow the discussion to asking about Class Cs that are truly winter-ready. Following bobndot's post, I looked at Forest River's Sunseeker (amusingly named since I'm a snow-seeker) website, and their no-slide model looks about perfect.

I'm happy to hear more opinions though. Y'all's expertise is really helpful.

Thanks.

-Mike

Check with Quigley FIRST.....they do NOT convert every RV out there. They have length/width/weight requirements that must be met or they will NOT convert it. Last conversation I had, it had to be 0-5 years old.

Grit dog wrote:
You can have basically any Ford E series converted to 4wd. Not cheap but likely not more than buying one. Guessing $20k for a conversion?
Super Cs can be had in 4wd. Again, even the decent used ones are $100k or more.
Normal rwd dually C with the right tires all around. Think studded snows or siped, studded mudders will be quite capable. Although the last part of the run up to Crystal can be a bobsled run coming down.
Easiest and most versatile solution if 4wd is a must is pickup truck and a TC.

Add Tigers and any of the other small time overland type rigs, but none are cheap unless old and clapped out.

Agree with Grit if you just plan on running up to Crystal or Snoqualmie. Not exactly apples to apples, but where I work we run studs all around in the winter on our E450 aid cars. Granted we don't get alot of snow around here, but when we do the roads get pretty snotty. The fire department doesn't have snow days, and with those studs the E450 will go up and down pretty much any hill, including unplowed driveways. A motorhome has 2/3 of its weight over the rear wheels so traction is surprisingly good.

Mskass, sorry for a long post , its just general winter rv info of my winter mods.

The Forest River R values for insulation are also good . If i remember correctly its r-15 top and bottom. We did add 2x2 interlocking foam tiles on the floor. They make the floor feel warmer.
Two other things we added was,
1. to use the front windshield curtain installed by velcro behind the front cab seats. This reduces the volume that you’ll need to heat. Use the less heated front seats for dry storage.

2. We use a heavy curtain to cover the entrance door which is a cold weather leak source in most rvs. I installed 4 small cup hooks above the door then sewn loops in the curtain. I then just unroll it down the floor, which is the entrance step.

Keep in mind one thing, after using various rvs for our 20 year plus snowmobiling trips, road salt will take its toll on the rv.
If using the rv is for limited lodge room vacancies then that’s fine but using the rv as a snow season winter cabin will probably be the more expensive option in the long run. My shock mounts on my truck camper corroded away on me snapping my front shocks off. Brake caliper life was shorter too .

At home, trying to combat this , i ran a hot water line to an outdoor spigot then hooked up an oscillating sprinkler under my rv , i Iet it do its thing for a few minutes after a snowy road trip.
Our Sunseeker has an under carriage spare tire that i try not to corrode. Not to mention the brakes , wheels and went to stainless brake lines eventually.

You will also have to think about improvising a storm window system to reduce condensation at the same time, keeping the interior warmer.
Some use Reflectix on the windows .
Only bc i already had the materials , I made storm windows out of two identical pieces of 1/2” DOW board glued together with a square cut out in the center of each window. That square was covered with clear heat shrink storm window covering.
Cut the Dow board to fit snug, it will hold in place . Doing this and covering the roof vents using interior foam vent pads worked very well. All my upgrades cumulatively saves LP gas which might be necessary with a relatively small LP tank. But it does make very toasty cabin with no drafts . Leaning up against an exterior wall with aluminum framework is the coldest spot. A pillow will be your friend. Place some cut foam floor tiles or Dow board between the mattress and exterior wall. Someone sleeping there will thank you. I would leave one roof accessible to be opened an inch to vent.

Hope all this helps Mike ,
Bob.