Forum Discussion
bobndot
Apr 22, 2021Explorer II
Mskass, sorry for a long post , its just general winter rv info of my winter mods.
The Forest River R values for insulation are also good . If i remember correctly its r-15 top and bottom. We did add 2x2 interlocking foam tiles on the floor. They make the floor feel warmer.
Two other things we added was,
1. to use the front windshield curtain installed by velcro behind the front cab seats. This reduces the volume that you’ll need to heat. Use the less heated front seats for dry storage.
2. We use a heavy curtain to cover the entrance door which is a cold weather leak source in most rvs. I installed 4 small cup hooks above the door then sewn loops in the curtain. I then just unroll it down the floor, which is the entrance step.
Keep in mind one thing, after using various rvs for our 20 year plus snowmobiling trips, road salt will take its toll on the rv.
If using the rv is for limited lodge room vacancies then that’s fine but using the rv as a snow season winter cabin will probably be the more expensive option in the long run. My shock mounts on my truck camper corroded away on me snapping my front shocks off. Brake caliper life was shorter too .
At home, trying to combat this , i ran a hot water line to an outdoor spigot then hooked up an oscillating sprinkler under my rv , i Iet it do its thing for a few minutes after a snowy road trip.
Our Sunseeker has an under carriage spare tire that i try not to corrode. Not to mention the brakes , wheels and went to stainless brake lines eventually.
You will also have to think about improvising a storm window system to reduce condensation at the same time, keeping the interior warmer.
Some use Reflectix on the windows .
Only bc i already had the materials , I made storm windows out of two identical pieces of 1/2” DOW board glued together with a square cut out in the center of each window. That square was covered with clear heat shrink storm window covering.
Cut the Dow board to fit snug, it will hold in place . Doing this and covering the roof vents using interior foam vent pads worked very well. All my upgrades cumulatively saves LP gas which might be necessary with a relatively small LP tank. But it does make very toasty cabin with no drafts . Leaning up against an exterior wall with aluminum framework is the coldest spot. A pillow will be your friend. Place some cut foam floor tiles or Dow board between the mattress and exterior wall. Someone sleeping there will thank you. I would leave one roof accessible to be opened an inch to vent.
Hope all this helps Mike ,
Bob.
The Forest River R values for insulation are also good . If i remember correctly its r-15 top and bottom. We did add 2x2 interlocking foam tiles on the floor. They make the floor feel warmer.
Two other things we added was,
1. to use the front windshield curtain installed by velcro behind the front cab seats. This reduces the volume that you’ll need to heat. Use the less heated front seats for dry storage.
2. We use a heavy curtain to cover the entrance door which is a cold weather leak source in most rvs. I installed 4 small cup hooks above the door then sewn loops in the curtain. I then just unroll it down the floor, which is the entrance step.
Keep in mind one thing, after using various rvs for our 20 year plus snowmobiling trips, road salt will take its toll on the rv.
If using the rv is for limited lodge room vacancies then that’s fine but using the rv as a snow season winter cabin will probably be the more expensive option in the long run. My shock mounts on my truck camper corroded away on me snapping my front shocks off. Brake caliper life was shorter too .
At home, trying to combat this , i ran a hot water line to an outdoor spigot then hooked up an oscillating sprinkler under my rv , i Iet it do its thing for a few minutes after a snowy road trip.
Our Sunseeker has an under carriage spare tire that i try not to corrode. Not to mention the brakes , wheels and went to stainless brake lines eventually.
You will also have to think about improvising a storm window system to reduce condensation at the same time, keeping the interior warmer.
Some use Reflectix on the windows .
Only bc i already had the materials , I made storm windows out of two identical pieces of 1/2” DOW board glued together with a square cut out in the center of each window. That square was covered with clear heat shrink storm window covering.
Cut the Dow board to fit snug, it will hold in place . Doing this and covering the roof vents using interior foam vent pads worked very well. All my upgrades cumulatively saves LP gas which might be necessary with a relatively small LP tank. But it does make very toasty cabin with no drafts . Leaning up against an exterior wall with aluminum framework is the coldest spot. A pillow will be your friend. Place some cut foam floor tiles or Dow board between the mattress and exterior wall. Someone sleeping there will thank you. I would leave one roof accessible to be opened an inch to vent.
Hope all this helps Mike ,
Bob.
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